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" HiEC GLIM MEMINISSE JUVABIT."
RICHMOND, VIRGINIA: PUBLISHED BY GEORGE M. WEST.
1856. /
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1856,
By George M. West, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Virginia.
King & Baird, Pbinters. No. 9 Sansom Street, Philadelphia.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I. Long Time Ago, . . . 17
CHAPTER II.
British Merchants, . . . .25
CHAPTER III.
Modern Antiquities, . . . .33
CHAPTER lY. Main Street, . . . • .43
CHAPTER Y.
Broad Street, . . •. . .51
CHAPTER YI.
The Capitol and Square, . . .57
CHAPTER YII.
Old Residences, . . . . . G3
CHAPTER YIII. The Mayor, 107
VI CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IX. The Hay Scale War, . . . .113
CHAPTER X.
Two Parsons and Ne'er a Church, . . 117
CHAPTER XI. Cemeteries, ..... 123
CHAPTER XII. Citizens of Yore, .... 125
CHAPTER XIII. Places of Amusement, .... 135
CHAPTER XIY. Places of Amusement, .... 141
CHAPTER XY. Places of Amusement, .... 149
CHAPTER XYI. Physicians, ..... 153
CHAPTER XYIT.
Newspapers and Printers, . . .161
CHAPTER XYIII. Publicans and Patriots, .... 171
CHAPTER XIX.
Races and Balls, . . . .177
CONTEXTS. Vll
CHAPTER XX. Societies, ..... 181
CHAPTER XXI.
Evening Pastimes, . . . .193
CHAPTER XXII.
A Medley, . . . . .199
CHAPTER XXIII.
Dentistry and Architecture, . . . 205
CHAP PER XXIY.
The Sharp Shin and Shiu-plaster Currency, . 209
CHAPTER XXY.
The Flush Times in Richmond, . . .217
CHAPTER XXYI.
The James River Canal, . . . . 233
CHAPTER XXYII. The Roads, 239
CHAPTER XXYIII.
The Bridges and Manchester, . . . 243
CHAPTER XXIX.
The Mutual Assurance Society, . . 253
CHAPTER XXX.
Manufactures and Mills, . . . 259
VIU CONTEXTS.
CHAPTER XXXI. Tobacco "Warehouses, .... 269
CHAPTER XXXII.
The Washington Monument, . . .275
CHAPTER XXXIIL
The Visit of Lafayette, . . .281
CHAPTER XXXIY.
The Museum, . . . . . 285
CHAPTER XXXY. Lotteries, ..... 291
CHAPTER XXXVI. Church Conversions, .... 295
CHAPTER XXXVII.
The Eagle, the Horse and the Tiger, . . 299
CHAPTER XXXVIIL
Gas and Water. A Fish Story, . . 303
CHAPTER XXXIX.
The Colored Aristocracy, . . . 309
CHAPTER XL. Caret, .... . 321
PREFACE.
The unpretending cTiaracter of this little book will probably disarm criticism, except from the attacks of such literary prowlers as make their assaults on the weakest, that they may be safe from resistance or retalia- tion.
These reminiscences were commenced at a period of illness, to while away the tedium of a sick chamber, and would not have ex- tended beyond the few pages thus penned to kill time, had not some friends urged the extension of them, to serve as a slight me- morial of men and things and events, of which there were few or no records, and which must soon pass into oblivion if not rescued by one of the survivors of them.
X PEEFACE.
The reader may doubt wlietlier a large portion of the contents deserve to be thus rescued ; and should this be the general opinion, its judgment will be carried into execution, by the book being consigned to the oblivion it merits.
What portions of these reminiscences are to be ascribed to false impressions on the memory, I must refer to my cotemporaries, being unconscious of them myself. In old age, the memory like the sight, discerns remote objects, while those which are near become indistinct, or imperceptible. But the imagination sometimes plays tricks with both. Memory becomes so strongly impressed with what it had frequently heard or frequently narrated, as to convert legends into facts, and phantoms into realities; and the eye is also deceived by outlines and shadows, into seeing objects which have neither form nor substance —
" Giving to airy nothings a local habitation and a name."
The writer trusts that there is nothing in these pages to hurt the feelings or wound
PEEFACE. XI
the susceptibilities of any one living person mentioned, or of the descendants of one; he can conscientiously assert that there is no such intention, and express his regret if his motives should be misinterpreted.
P. S. — When the following pages were penned, the writer had not seen the volume published a few years ago, entitled "History of Richmond, by Dr. John P. Little ;" and having not yet perused it regularly, he is unconscious of any encroachments on the Doctor's manor, and he will be the first probably to excul- pate the writer from any such charge. The Doctor's work appears to be one of historical research, to which this lays no claim.
March, 1856.
INTRODUGTIOK
It may not be amiss to prefix to these Eecollections of the City of Eiclimond, a short notice of its origin.
The following extract from a manuscript volume of Col. Wm. Byed, of Westover, the founder of the City, was written in the year 1733, in his journal.
"Sept. 19, 1733.— When we got home we laid the foundation of two large cities, one at Shacco's, to be called Richmond, and the other at the falls of Appomattox river, to be named Petersburg. These Major Mayo offered to lay out into lots without fee or reward. The truth of it is, these two places being the uppermost landing of James and Appomattox rivers, are naturally intended for marts where the trafi&c of the outer inhabit- ants must centre. Thus we did not build castles only, but also cities in the air." [The Westover Manuscripts, Petersburg. — Printed by Edmond and Julian Kuffin, 184].]
2
14 IXTRODUCTION".
Peter Joxes Avas one of tlie party em- braced in the term " We," and to Mm as tTie proprietor of tlie land, is Petersburg indebted for its name — not to Peter tbe Great.
In the year 1742, the Assembly of Vir- ginia passed " an act establisbing tlie town of Eichmond, in the connty of Henrico, and allowino; Fairs to be held therein" in the months of May and November, "on the lands of Wm. Byrd, Esq., at the Falls of James river." Shockoe's creek was the northern and eastern boundary. The river and a line therefrom along First street to the creek, (probably Bacon Branch) was the southern and western.
In 1744, an act was passed to prohibit the building of wooden chimneys, "by reason of the imminent danger of fire." ■ In 1769, " an act for establishing towns at Rocky Ridge^ (Manchester), at Gloucester Court House, and Layton's Ware House."
In 1779, " an act for the removal of the seat of government" to the town of Eich- mond— which includes a section authorising an enlargement of its limits by the addition of two hundred lots, or one hundred acres.
In 1780, "an act for locating the public squares, to enlarge the town, and for other
INTRODUCTION. 15
purposes" — locates tlie Capitol^ Halls of Jus- tice, State House for Executive Boards, and a house for the Governor, on Shockoe Hill, and a Public Market below the hill, on the same side of the creek. " Thomas Jefferson, Archi- bald Gary, Robert Garter Nicholas, Richard Adams, Edmund Randolph, Turner South- all, Robert Goode, James Buchanan, and Samuel Du Yall, Esquires, were appointed to lay off in such form and of such dimensions as shall be convenient and requisite." Two hundred more lots of a half acre each were added, and authority given to clear the navi- gation leading to Shockoe landing, " which was much obstructed of late by freshets, the natural course of the creek beino^ altered, bv which lar2;e banks of sand have been thrown up, which if not quickly removed, may ren- der the navigation to the upper landing use- less," i. e. the present site of the Gas Works, Carey street.
In 1781, "an act to secure to persons who desire titles to lots, lands and tenements, un- der the Lottery, or under a Deed of Trust of the late William Byrd, Esq., a fee simple estate therein."
The Wm. Byrd here spoken of, was a son of the founder, and was as industrious in
J 6 IN'TRODUCTIOX.
spending a fortune, as his father had been in makinsT one. The sale of lots in Eichmond
o
was perhaps not as rapid as his expenditures required, and from the recital in this act, it appears that in 1756 he made a lottery of lots in Richmond and Manchester^ under the man- agement of gentlemen named in the act, and* he also appointed trustees to make deeds, (probably to the prize holders, though not so expressed). At the date of this act (1781) Charles Carter was the only surviving trustee, and he was authorised by it to exe- cute the deeds.
In 1782, an act was passed which conferred on Richmond the title of (7%, and incorpo- rated it as such.
In 1788, the City was allowed a Represen- tative in the House of Deles'ates.
PJCHMOND U BY-GONE DAYS.
CHAPTEK I.
LONG TIME AGO.
"Should auld aequaintance be forgot,
And never brought to min' ? Should auld acquaintance be forgot,
And days o'lang-syne?"
THERE are few residents of Riclimond wliose reminiscence of its localities, &c. have a more remote retrospection than mine • impressed on my cliildhood, perhaps on my imagination ; and as the latter may occasion, ally prevail, I will not venture to assert that my descriptions and anecdotes are literally correct — they are so, as the qualification in court goes, " to the best of my knowledge and belief." As far back as the year 1792, 1 think I remember the marlcet-Jiouse occupying the site of the one just rebuilt (1855) on Main and Seventeenth streets. The first edifice was an open shed supported on wooden posts, and the slope
18 RICHMOND IN" BY- GONE DAYS.
from it down to ShocJcoe Creek was a green pas- ture, and considered a common, much used by lanndresses wliereon to dry the clothes which they washed in the stream. A spring of cool water arose in the common on the south side of Main street, but the spot is now occupied by a building where fountains of fire-water are substituted for the natural and pure element, and, I fear, it may be added, that the com- bined elements attract more thirsty bodies than the simple one did of yore ; although the thirst is more apt to be increased than allayed by the fiery substitute.
The creek was crossed by foot passengers on a narrow bridge, raised a few feet above the surface of the water, but horses cooled their feet by fording it. When freshets occurred, the planks were removed from the bridge and a ferry-boat was substituted, which conveyed vehicles, as well as man and horse, across the wide and sometimes deep stream.
At the mouth of the creek, where the gas holders now rise and fall, was a wharf, built around a broad, flat rock (which has been blasted to accommodate the gas), and this place was called the Roch Landing^ where oyster boats and small craft resorted.
Along the then elevated bank of the river,
LONG TIME AGO. 19
from about the rear of the present Union Hotel, a grassy walk, shaded by elm and other trees, extended for a considerable distance, down to where Foster's rope-walh afterwards stood, and this was the fashionable promenade. Of late years, the clay which nourished those trees has been converted into bricks, the surface lowered many feet, and a large portion of it covered with buildings. Below this bank was a narrow branch of the river, separated from the main stream by a narrow strip of land, an island, on which grew a few large sycamore trees, about the site of the present dock. I remember a vessel, grounded probably in a freshet, in this narrow stream, and converted into a place of refreshment, which was reached by a platform from the shore, and resorted to by promenaders. Its position was peculiarly favorable for obtaining and disposing of oys- ters.
The eastern end of this shaded walk termi- nated in a high and steep cliff, overhanging the river, which washed its base at high water, but at low tide admitted of a narrow walk on the sands. On the occasion of a severe ice freshet once, a great deposit of drift-wood, soil and sand formed a small island some hun- dred feet from this cliff. A German, named
20 KICHMO^'D IN BY-GONE DAYS.
"Widewilt, procured a land warrant and located it on this new-found land, and, to secure it against becoming a floating island, he drove stakes all round his slippery domain, and wattled them so that future freshets might add further deposits ; and thus Widewilfs Island became a possession of some value as a fish- ery and sand mart. The island remained above water longer than its founder did above ground ; but a similar accident to that which formed the island recurred, and destroyed the work of its predecessor. An ice freshet consolidated the river, and so obstructed the current that the ice borne over the Falls con- tinued to accumulate in height until it rose to the level of Mayo's Bridge. An unfrozen current flowed underneath, but was not visi- ble for many miles. The immense mass of ice slowly disappeared, and with it disap- peared Widewilt's Island.
A similar loss of territory happened to Great Britain some years before. A volcanic island rose in the Atlantic off" St. Michael's, one of the Azores, in 1811, and when it be- came cool enough not to scorch shoe leather, the captain of the British frigate Sahrina^ then cruising on that station, landed on it, and coolly took possession in the name of his
LONG TIME AGO. 21
sovereign, and gave to it tlie name of his ship. It was my fortune, or misfortune, during the war in 1814, soon after passing the site of this new British territory, to be captured by one of his Britannic Majesty's ships. I was on board an American vessel commanded by a Scotchman, and I was captured by a British vessel commanded by a Yankee, and to com- plete the strange antithesis, a Yankee prize- master was placed over my Scotch captain. The Yankee was a well disposed — I should rather say a good-natured man — for his dispo- sition to fight against his country was not luell^ but he had been a carpenter in the British service long before the fight begun. I in- quired of him about the island, and was told he could show me what remained of it. Thereupon, opening his sea-chest, he handed me a lump of lava, and told me he was pres- ent at the birth of the island, and acted as one of its godfathers. That he took this memento of his bantling, who did not survive, or rather sur wave^ but about eighteen months ; and he bestowed on me one-half of the British do- minion he had rescued from the other domin- ion which she claimed in that boastful song, " Britannia rules the waves."
An ephemeral island has risen and subsided
22 RICHMOND IN BY-GOXE DAYS.
several times near the same spot. Shonld " Sabrina," or one of lier ascendants^ venture to raise lier head above water, she Avill proba- bly be claimed by Great Britain as a deserter ; nor is such a claim likely to be disputed, except in the lower regions, whence these islands seem to emigrate.
The Rock Landing has had a singular suc- cession of occupants. When vessels of some size could no longer float there, and when even the oyster boats had to abandon it in favor of a wharf, which was extended to deeper water, a shot-tower was erected on it, or, according to modern parlance, was heing erected. Although founded on a rock, it had not attained to its full attitude, when it fell to the ground, proving that bad bricks and weak mortar were unfit for high pressure, or per- haps the rock on which it was based may not have been dressed to a true level, and the tall structure slid off sidewise. The materials served to form a less aspiring structure, to use a gentle term, for a block of buildings in the Yalley not always in very good repute.
Thus dead to any useful purpose, the Rock Landins^ was buried under the accumulatino: mass of earth and rubbish, which was carted from foundations for houses and from less
LONG TIME AGO. 23
pure sources. After many years interment it was exhumed, and like some other subjects, whose graves are violated, its still firm body was dislocated, and the members scattered abroad or used in the erection of the huge monument which covers its grave, but a bright and subtle spirit arises from it, which serves to enlighten our citizens in the most benighted times.
" The Gage!^ is, I believe, a term peculiar to Eichmond, as applied to the receptacle for offenders. It originated from a structure so called, erected at the north-east end of the market bridge, some fifty years ago, when it terminated close to the market-house ; its long parapet- wall of brick, surmounted by a capping of free-stone. This cage, of octagonal form, had open iron gratings on three sides, about ten feet above the street, and the floor of this open prison was arranged amphithea- trically, so that each occupant could see, and, what was worse, be seen from the street.
Here were encaged (when caught) the un- feathered night-hawks that prowl for prey, and screeching owls that make night hideous, and black birds, who had flown from their own nests, to nestle elsewhere, like cuckoos ; and some birds, both black and white, who
24: EICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
had no nests at all, were brougtit to roost here until that official ornithologist, the police master, should examine into their characters. This was a somewhat convenient arrangement to the citizen, who, on rising in the morning, missed the attendant on his household com- forts, and who, as he went to market, had only to look into the cage for his flown bird. A structure made memorable to fature ages by the author of Hudibras, stood in rear of the casfe.
In all the fabrick
You shall not see one stone or brick,
But all of wood, by powerful spell
Of magic, made impregnable:
There's neither iron bar. nor gate,
Portcullis, chain, nor bolt, nor grate:
And yet men durance there abide.
In dungeon, scarce three inches wide,
With roof so low, that under it
They never stand, but lie or sit;
And yet so foul that whoso is in,
Is to the middle leg in prison;
In circle magical confiu'd.
With wall of subtile air and wind;
Which none are able to break thorough.
Until they're freed by the head-borough."
This mystical prison — the siochs — sur- mounted the whipping -20ost^ and was an awful warning to the foul birds; some of whom were occasionally condemned to roost in the upper part and others to become acquainted with the twigs in the lower.
BRITISH MERCHANTS. 25
CHAPTER II..
BRITISH MERCHANTS.
THE term " Britisli merchants " is here used not in its general acceptation, but as it was formerly applied in Virginia, to those who had establishments here, and who, in fact, had the monopoly of trade in most of the South- ern States. Far be it from me to impugn the integrity and liberality of so truly noble a class as the British merchants, or to reflect on any nationalities, classes or sects.
On another page it is stated that supplies of goods were imported into Virginia, previous to and for a score of years after the Revolu- tion, chiefly by English, Scotch and Irish merchants. The principals of these mercan- tile houses resided in Great Britain, and junior partners conducted the business in Virginia. Some of these concerns branched out, like polypi, to the villages and court-houses, and some of them, also like polypi, consumed the substance of all that came within their grasp. There were, however, many honorable excep- tions to this rule.
3
26 EICHMOXD IN BY-GOXE DAYS.
It was said to be one of tlie stipulations be- tween the principals of tliese houses and the young men they sent to Virginia as clerks, that they were not to marry in Yirginia. They came with the prospect of being admit- ted as partners in some branch of the central establishment, and it might weaken the sordid attachment to their patrons if they formed an attachment of a purer and tenderer nature to the fair daughters of their customers. They might make less stringent bargains, or be more indulgent in requiring payments. This monk- ish system tended to prevent that social inter- course between merchant and planter, which the hospitable disposition of the latter would have encouraged, and this exclusion of the former from good society led to the formation of connections of a disreputable character, and to habits of intemperance, to which many of them became victims.
With a moderate share of prudence and industry, the acquisition of a fortune was almost certain. Competition did not interfere to reduce the profit on goods below forty or fifty per cent., nor to raise the price of tobacco, which was generally taken in payment, above sixteen shillings and eight pence ($2.78) or eighteen shillings (§3) per one hundred pounds,
BRITISH MERCHANTS. 27
and, at tliat time, tlie sale of no tobacco other than good leaf or stemmed was permitted — such as was not merchantable, if presented for inspection, was burned. Previous to the Eevo- lution, a convention of the (Virginia) British merchants was semi-annually held at Williams- burg, when the prices they would allow for to- bacco was fixed for the then current year, after the crops were pretty well ascertained. This was trading on a pretty safe basis, as the part- ners abroad could control the prices there in a great degree. Those planters who lived extravagantly were apt to fall in debt to their merchants, and would give bonds, renewed from year to year, with interest added, until a mort- gage or deed of trust ensued, and thus some fine estates changed hands from planter to merchant.
Loans were also made to the planters, which were apt to prove ruinous to the borrowers. One mode of evading the usury law was by buying from the planter a bill of exchange, drawn by him on some person or thing in London, at a very low rate of exchange; which bill would of course be protested and returned, subject to damages, and a refund at the current rate of exchange, thus involving a loss of twenty-five per cent, or more for
28 KICHMOND m BY-GONE DAYS.
about six montlis' use of tlie money. I have heard that such bills had been drawn on " the pump at Aldgate," and that on one occasion, when the planter was at a loss for a name to draw on, the pious merchant suggested " the Bishop of London," which was adopted. When the bill was presented to his reverence, he was much surprised, but thinking there must be some proper ground for it, he consulted a friend as to the course to be pursued, stating that he did not know the drawer, nor any cause for such a bill, and wished to be advised how to act. A protest was of course the result, and no grace was given to the graceless parties.
This system of evading the usury law gave rise to an enactment by the Legislature of Virginia, requiring, after the sum in sterling on the face of the bill, it should also express in currency the amount actually received for it, and, if this was omitted, the holder could recover no more pounds in currency than were drawn for in sterling.
The British merchants had drawn the Yir- ginia planters so deeply in debt to them, and the cessation of trade during the Eevolution had caused such an advance in the price of imported goods, and so great a depreciation in that of produce, that to save the planters from
BRITISH MERCHANTS. 29
ruin, and to piinisTi the mercliants for Toryism, the Legislature passed an act confiscating British debts, and authorizing the treasurer to collect them. The effect of this was annulled when peace took place.
The monopoly of the trade of Virginia, in effect, was retained by the British merchants many years after the peace of 1783, but adven- turers from the Northern and Eastern States gradually made good their footing, and created competition, and even some Virginians conde- scended to stand behind the desk or the coun- ter. Some of the imported Celibates relin- quished their vows and became engrafted on society, and thus an entire change was brought about in our commercial system.
When all our goods were imported direct from abroad, and our produce exported to Europe, we paid dearly for the honor of such direct trade, and found it to our interest to introduce Northern competition, which in- creased by slow degrees.
The first bold innovator, who dared to com- pete on a large scale with the importers, was Bartlett Still. He purchased his goods in the Northern cities, priced them in dollars and cents, instead of pounds, shillings and pence^ and sold for cash. His fancy articles were
I*
80 EICHMOND IN BY- GONE DAYS.
more stylish, and his store more showy and brilliant than those of the old fogies, and he attracted the fashionable custom. His deeds were celebrated in rhyme, which gave increased notoriety to his establishment.
His example was soon followed, and ^^new store" was succeeded by "new neiu store;" which latter throve so well that those of the next generation became stock-jobbers, million- aires and bankrupts, in New York, in rapid succession.
Thus, by degrees, the purchase of goods in New York and Philadelphia became the rule, and direct importation the exception. Of late years the largest portion of our tobacco crop is manufactured at home and sold at the north, but the quantity shipped direct to Europe is equal to the demand, now that the Western States furnish so large a supply to markets abroad.
The system which formerly existed pre- vented an accumulation of commercial capital in Eichmond, or in any town in Yirginia, and thus stinted their growth. The profits on trade went in the first instance chiefly to the principals in Great Britain, and when their Virginia partners had amassed a comfortable capital, having no family ties here, they would
BRITISH MERCHANTS. 31
retire to " the old country," as thej called it, with the capital they had accumulated ; and this continual drain kept "the new country" poor.
Many adventurers from the Northern States, after making money here, would return to spend or increase it there. It is of late years, comparatively, that a large mercantile capital has become stable in Virginia. Millions almost might be counted up that were abstrac- ted from Eichmond and Petersburg in former days, to establish those merchants, who had accumulated it here, in London, Liverpool, and New York, while scarcely any capital came from those cities to replace it.
MODEEN ANTIQUITIES. 33
CHAPTER III.;
MODEKN ANTIQUITIES.
OUR antiquities are so modern, compared even witli European, (and they are but mere upstarts in comparison with the Egyptian and Asiatic), that the term scarcely seems ap- plicable in America, except with respect to the mounds and ruins discovered in the west and south-west.
Among the most respectable in point of age and appearance of which Richmond can boast, is the old stone house of one story, on Main street, which dates probably A. U. C. — and what is more remarkable has always been in the Ege family. May it long remain in its primitive and respectable condition, or according to the Spanish adieu "may it live a thousand years."
A steam corn mill has lately intruded itself as next door neighbor to the ancient and honorable stone house. This mere upstart is puffing and blowing, and making all sorts of noises in the very ears of Mr. Ege's descend- ants. It is enough to arouse the old pa-
84 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
triarch from his grave to see his old mansion thus besieged — but if he were to come, he would be astonished by the whistle of the locomotive on one hand, and the blowing off of a steamboat on the other, by lights in his house without oil or candle, by the water of the river flowing in his yard, and above all, by something like a high clothes-line in the street, along which people carry on a conver- sation with Boston or New Orleans — things never dreamed of in his philosophy.
On the very summit of the high and steep hill, north of the Ege house, stands the old Adams Mansion^ a cotemporary probably; erected by the original proprietor, whose do- main was separated by Shockoe creek from that of Col. Byrd, the founder of Eichmond. That mansion retains its primitive and pic- turesque appearance, and is kept in fine pre- servation by its present owner, Mr. Loftin Ellett. The old Parish Church of St. John's, ^yhich was entitled to precedence for its sacred character, and probably for its age also, is preserved in its ancient purity of simple architecture, with only the addition of a tower and belfry, which rising in pure white among the tall trees around it, presents one of the most beautiful and conspicuous
MODERN ANTIQUITIES. 35
objects in the many beautiful landscapes of wbich Eicbmond can boast.
The Masonic Hall deserves also to be men- tioned among the " ancient and honorable " edifices, though comparatively of modern date. Its proportions are creditable to the architect, as its good preservation is to the brethren.
The oldest public house was ^'■ihe Bird in 'ha.nd^'* on Main street, at the foot of Church hill, lately a ruinous hovel, but now embel- lished with a new front of brick-bats.
A more modern, and a splendid house in its day, was the City tavern. " Hotel " was no more known then than in Meg Dod's palmiest days. But the old tavern having almost miraculously, as a wooden building, escaped conflagration, is now degraded to a work- shop. The smoke-stack has succeeded the smoke-jack, the table is displaced by the work-bench, and wheels, bands and pullies revolve, where Minuets, Eeels and Congos were danced at a ball given in honor of Gen. Washington.
A successor to the City tavern rose on the opposite side of the street, under the title of the Union Hoie\ but now called the " United States ;" for taverns like rogues change their
SQ RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
names when they lose their characters, and this is a case of reformation under new rulers.
Bowler'' s Tavern stood where afterwards was "the Bell Tavern^'' named after its Quaker founder, and where now stands the City Hotel^ or of recent sanctification (Query ? the appropriateness ?) the " Saint Charles Eoteir
Bowler's was a one story wooden house of an L shape, standing on a bank some six feet or more above the street, and reached by a flight of steps, beneath which ran the gutter — sometimes a mill stream in volume.
On some occasions the river, much more aspiring than of late years, would submerge the street and obstruct the approach to the house. An old citizen who died some years ago, said that he had paddled a canoe into Bowler's tavern — and a living one tells me he has crossed the street there in a boat.
The landlord was a figure to attract notice as a living model of departed fashions. His tall and burly form arrayed in fair-top boots, buff shorts, scarlet vest, green coat decked with large gilt buttons, a cocked hat, his rubicund face, surmounted by a carrot col- ored wig ; to the rear of which hung a long
MODERN ANTIQUITIES. 87
and thick queue, stiffly enwrapped in black ribbon, except a short brnsh of hair peeping out at the lower end to show of what it was formed. This queue oscillated like a pendu- lum half-way down his back, marking a sec- tion of a circle on his coat. A worthy and kind old gentleman was Major Bowler, and I have introduced him with no feeling of dis- respect, but as a fine specimen of the fashion in his day.
In the rear of this tavern, on a steep hill- side, now cut down and occupied by livery stables and small dwellings, were the Falling Gardens^ and the residence of their proprie- tor Mr. Lowndes, a fine type of the Quaker in personal appearance and in dress — with his broad-brimmed hat, drab suit, the coat of plainest cut without a superfluous button, waistcoat in same style, both of ample length and breadth, knee-breeches, gray stockings, and silver knee and shoe buckles. Many such fio^ures were then to be seen in our streets, now not one, though some of the sect remain.
Just above his residence, and where now stands the Odd Fellows' Hall, on Franklin street, there stood on a hill nearly as high as that Hall, two small brick buildings, with as
4
88 RICHMOND IN BY- GONE DAYS.
mucTi decoration of cornice and panel work as could well be displayed. These were tradi- tionally (iDut incorrectly I am told) called the Auditor's and Treasurer's offices. They were erected by Henry Banks, as wings to a grand centre, which was designed to connect them ; but some of Mr. B.'s speculations fell to the ground, and his palace never rose above it. He had the reputation, well-earned, of being a very litigious man, and on one occasion, meeting a gentleman of his ac- quaintance on horseback, he accosted him and remarked casually, "that horse, Mr. P. is very much like one that I had." " 0, Mr. Banks," replied Mr. P., at the same time making a movement to dismount, " if you mean to claim the horse, do not bring suit, I will relinquish him rather than go to law."
The Treasury was a wooden house, after- wards occupied as a dwelling by Mr. James Brown, Jr., in the rear of his (now Mr. Webb's), large store. Its security must have rested more on the absence of temptation, than in the strength of the building. On the summit of the high hill, overlooking the Treasury, was the Council Chamher^ which until lately gave name to the Hill. But the plain brick building in which the " potent,
MODERN ANTIQUITIES. 89
grave, and reverend seniors " of tlie State assembled in the early years of the Common- wealth, has disappeared, as hast he summit of the hill on which it stood. Eoss street, and Mayo and College streets have bored deeply into it, exposing to light the impressions of vast beds of scallop and other shells, a few shark's teeth, and various unmistakable in- dications, that this lofty hill, overlooking the surrounding country, had once been at the bottom of the now distant ocean. In this, if nothing else, we can lay claim to high an- tiquity.
The Council Chamber, and the beautiful hill on which it stood, became the property of Col. John Mayo : converted into a dwelling, it was his occasional City residence, when by way of variety his family left their country seat, north-west of the City, called the Hermi- tage^ which was anything but a Hermitage in point of seclusion ; for there the reigning belle of the day, as well as other members of the family, attracted many visitors, and Gen- eral Scott proved, by carrying her off against all competitors, that "none but the brave de- serve the fair."
Bellville^ the beautiful country-seat, named after the gentleman who built it, became after-
40 KICHMOXD IN BY-GONE DAYS.
wards tlie residence of tlie Mayo family ; but both the Hermitage and Bellville now present a melancholy aspect. Time and neglect have preyed on the one, and fire on the other, leav- ing bare walls only to mark the spot.
Another branch of the Mayo family has occupied, for nearly a century perhaps, a country-seat south-east of the city, called Powhatan^ and reputed, no doubt correctly, to have been the site of the royal residence of the king whose name it bears ; but it was not the scene of Pocahontas's romantic rescue of Captain Smith.
The Council-chamber residence was particu- larly convenient to Colonel Mayo, for, with a spy-glass, he could see from thence all that was passing on his bridge, a structure which — like the Pyramids of Egypt, each the work of the life-time of the Pharaoh who was to occu- py it — kept the Colonel employed from the prime of youth to a ripe old age, and left a similar occupation to his successor.
The Ccqjitol itself occupied a very humble site at the base of this hill, and the homeliness of the building was adapted to its locality; but it may be questioned whether, in that mere wooden barn, more high talent, more political wisdom, and more polished gentility,
MODERN ANTIQUITIES. 41
were not assembled, tlian have been since in the marred copy of a beautiful Grecian tem- ple, which in its coat of shabby stucco, crowns the beautiful summit of Capitol hill.
The Old Capitol as it was called till it was demolished, was on Fourteenth (or modern Pearl) street, below Exchange alley, where Mr. Fry has erected some fine stores. The house was a plain one-story building, origi- nally of small dimensions. From Halls of Legislation it was converted into counting rooms — bills of exchange were drawn in place of legislative bills — bargain and sale superseded motions and enactments — for I dare be sworn that bargain and sale never contaminated those Halls when occupied by the Fathers of the Eepublic, and I hope it cannot be truly charged to their successors.
An English firm, Donald k Burton, occu- pied the old Capitol, as did their successors, carrying on a very extensive business. The name of the last one, James Brown, being common to several other residents, caused the soubriquet of " Old Capitol Brown " to be applied to him, while others were vari- ously distinguished. The last survivor of
these synonymes still retains the designation
4*
42 KICHMOND IN BY- GONE DAYS.
of Junior^ tlioiigh lie lias passed three score and ten, and I hope liis juniority will con- tinue for many years more. With, him I will close this chapter of Modern Antiquities.
MAIN" STREET. 43
CHAPTER lY.
MAIN STREET.
THE earliest impression on my mind of tlie appearance of tlie Main street^ (and it was tlie only one on which the buildings were not "few and far between,") is that the houses were of wood, and generally of one or two stories in height. On the west of Shockoe creek two of these yet remain. One is a few doors below the spot where Bowler's, the Bell, the City, and St. Charles, have succes- sively ofi'ered their accommodations to travel- lers ; a small two story house, for many years past a tinner's shop, but very many years previous to that the property of the worthy ^'' Minton Collins^ seedsman,'^^ who showed his gratitude by bestowing it on the daughters of his hospitable friend Mr. Wiseham. The other wooden structure, which has escaped demolition — though time has nearly effected it — is the house at the corner of Main and Fourteenth or Pearl streets, and this, like some folks, artfully conceals its natural com- plexion and its antiquity, under an artificial
4-i RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
exterior, a coat of plaster, thougli it is some- times betrayed by the laths.
The Brick Row^ thus distinguished of old fbr its excliTsiveness, commenced at this spot, and extended up to what ivas GrawforcVs Corner^ now the Dispatch office; where the same cannon has stood guard against the assaults of drays and wagons at least sixty years. The square diagonally above the old gun was, I think, the next that could boast of brick fronts, and these, where not replaced by new ones, now show marks of antiquity. The opposite square was the third to obtain such distinction, and its most conspicuous edifice was the Eagle Tavern. Pursuing a zig zag course from the upper corner of the Eagle Square^ as it is still called, though the eagle has flown, we see the last of the brick rows that stood at the beginning of the pre- sent century, and that row has risen a story, by an Irish process of depression ; the street having been cut down until the cellars were brought to light and converted into shops. The only four story house in the city was " Harris's huilding^''^ at the upper corner of the square, and this grew up, or rather down, to be of five stories, when its elevation (like Cardinal Wolsey's) caused its downfall; it
MAIN STREET. 45
liad aspired above tlie reach of its protectors, the fire engines, even aided by the great Fire King, John P. Shields, and it expired in a blaze, not more glorious than the cardinal's, though like him resigned to its fate, i. e., if well insured.
Nearly opposite to the present Exchange Bank stood a large wooden building, whicL, in my youthful days, was Ms. Gilberts Coffee House; not a news-room, but truly what its name imports ; and here tea, coffee and cho- colate were dispensed to customers, seated around the fire in winter, or at the open windows in summer. In after years, and under other occupants, it assumed the name of the Globe Tavern^ and it closed its career a few years ago as an " oyster and beef-steak house, with other refreshments," under a skilful mulatto woman, whose canvas backs, soras, and other delicacies of the season at- tracted many customers. The great Globe is dissolved, leaving not a wreck behind, and the splendid store of Kent, Paine & Co., the first specimen in Eichmond of the Broadway style of dry goods palaces, has risen on the spot.
Main street was not a smooth road to travel either on horseback or on foot. No portion of the carriage-way was paved, and the side walks
46 EICHMOXD IN BY- GONE DAYS.
only here and there, and with iips and downs. The dealers who wished to entice the ladies to their shops (stores, I beg pardon,) would present a paved entrance ; those who sought rougher ciistomers offered a rough reception, over gravel or cobble stone. Dust in summer was insufferable, and in winter the mud would be ancle deep, and in some places " up to the hub." By way of making crossings, a narrow mound of ashes and cinders would be raised across the street, and wo to him or her who, on a dark night, deviated from the right path.
A small stream used to flow rather dia^on- ally across Main street; its source was a spring or springs flowing from the hill which terminated below the present Metropolitan Hall^ formerly the First Presbyterian Church; it passed in a trunk through BynVs ivarehouse^ and flowed along an alley, the entrance of which is now converted into a large arch at Mr. Womble's store, above Fourteenth street. Its course continued openly and boldly across Main street, but was concealed until it emerged in Change alley, and flowed along Virginia and across Cary streets to the river. Some- times with its afiSuents from the shutters, after a rain, it would spread over the entire surface
MAIN STEEET. 47
of Virginia street and convey to the river a liberal contribution of gravel and mud. All these vagaries are now hidden by a culvert, like the under ground railroad, concealing many foul movements.
A somewhat successful attempt was made by the residents on Main street, at about the close of the last century, to beautify it by planting trees ; and Mr. Jefferson's (recently introduced) favorite exotic, the Lombardy poplar, which was then all the rage, was chosen beyond all the trees of the forest. It flourished as many of its countrymen have on our soil, and its towering summits soon aspired to, and even overtopped the height of the chimneys ; but pride must have a fall. The national plant of Virginia (unjustly stig- matized as a weed) may naturally be supposed to have become jealous of the foreign upstart that towered over her near her native fields at every homestead, and it is as natural to imagine that she induced the insects she had nourished to make an attack on the invader, and a successful one it proved. The great caterpillars were not recognized by the people as native tobacco worms, but were stigmatized as poisonous foreigners, and as being un- gratefully introduced and nourished by the
48 RICHMO^'D m BY-GONE DATS.
exotic tliey had clierisTied. The rage now took an opposite course. Evidence as strong was adduced against the caterpi^llars, as of yore against the witches, and the decision was equally just and fatal to both. The axe was put to the roots of the trees, and scarcely one in all the region around survives to show the injustice of the sentence.
Main street did not extend far beyond Harris's house in habitable guise, in those days. Gullies and swamps crossed its path. "Where Taji-harJc-hall stood, and Bosher's row stands, were the tan yards of Bockius and McKechnie. A path of tan bark or of boards enabled pedestrians to reach the nearly un- inhabited regions beyond, but carriages rarely ventured through the swamp or up the ascent beyond it. The eaves of the houses used by the tanners were scarcely as high as the pre- sent foot-way. There was a good skating pond in winter on one of the lots on the north side of the street. The family of McKims owned and resided on the property where Corinthian Hall and other buildings now rear their tall heads, in place of the ancient and lowly structures lately removed.
I ought to apologize for pursuing a devious course, and I now descend from the upper
MAIN STREET. 49
end of Main street to tlie sonth-west end of the market bridge, where was the parterre of Mons. Didier Colin, Perruquier, extending from his house down to the margin of Shockoe creek. Looking over the parapet of the bridge, the pedestrian might have his senses regaled with the sight and smell of various flowers in their season. The spot on which they grew is now covered with brick build- ings, but the creek, not reconciled to the encroachment, sometimes rises in wrath and drives the invaders from their lower apart- ments.
A place of great public resort during many years after about 1810, for politicians, quid- nuncs, stock jobbers, and in general those who had nothing else to do, was Lynches Coffee House^ two doors below the Globe, which Mr. Lynch had vacated. Here all the news, foreign and domestic, rumours true or false, scandal and tittle-tattle centered, and from hence it was diffused, with increased vigor at each corner round which it circu- lated. Here windy talkers would blow their bellows, and tedious ones tire their listeners ; but here also men of note might frequently be listened to, and here Mr. Lynch held his
stock auctions. The most difficult thing at
5
50 RICHMOND IX BY-GOXE DAYS.
tliis reading-room, was a quiet perusal of the papers ; but '^AT.tli all its disadvantages, it was an useful place of resort, where a-body could meet a-body ; and it does no credit to Eich- mond, that a reading-room cannot now be well sustained; it must be ascribed to the great industry of its merchants and profes- sional men, who have no time to spare.
At Lynch's, during times of political ex- citement, as soon as the papers were obtained from the post office, he would open the most important one and read the news aloud to the assembled multitude. During the war with Great Britain, and when General Scott was on the Canadian frontier, he read aloud "the army is in statu quoP "Indeed!" said one of his hearers, "how far is that from Montreal?" And on another occasion he announced " Congress is to be called together instanterr "Dear me!" said a listener, ^'are they afraid to meet in Washington?"
BEOAD STREET. 5i
CHAPTER Y.
BROAD STREET.
SOME sixty years ago, or more, Broad street (or ratlier, broad road,) contained few houses, except at its two extremities, which were First and Twelfth streets. The trade from both sides of the Blue Ridge was carried on by means of large four or six- horse wagons ; and, as they entered the city at the head of Broad street, small dealers established themselves there to meet the trade. The name of one of them yet re- mains in the identical spot occupied by that of his grandfather, James Bootwright, in the last century, on the first house on First street, and when he recently died, we lost "the oldest inhabitant." His cotemporary, Garth- wright, at the opposite corner, was his friendly rival in trade during some thirty or forty years. The wagons came laden with flour, butter, hemp, wax, tallow, flaxseed, feathers, deer and bear skins, furs, ginseng, snake-root, &c. ; and I once saw a bunch of dried rattlesnakes, which I was told was used
62 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
to make viper brotti for consumptive patients. Eattlesnakes seem to have been considered a delicacy, even amongst the higher classes, in old times, for Col. Byrd, in his " Jonrnal to the Land of Eden," (on Koanoke river,) says : "We killed two very large rattlesnakes, of fifteen and twelve rattles ; they were both fat, but nobody would be persuaded to carry them to our quarters, although they would have added much to the luxury of our sup- per." As they had venison and wild turkey, they could not have been in a star\T.ng con- dition.
A portion of the wagoners traded on Broad street, but by far the larger number, and es- pecially of those who brought loads from country merchants, drove down town. That trade was chiefly in the hands of four or five city merchants ; and the fleets of wagons that would assemble, in brisk times, near their stores, looked like the baggage train of a small army. Many of these wagons, how- ever, came by another road, through the Southern Yalley, from Abingdon, and that region was even then a wealthy one, from its mineral and agricultural products. As specie only circulated in that remote country, one of the expedients resorted to by the merchants
BROAD STREET. 53
there to make remittances to Eichmond, was, to place a bag of gold or silver in tlie centre of a cask of melted wax or tallow, or to con- ceal the silver within a large bale of hemp.
Such a journey, over such roads as were then travelled, was a work of time and toil. Almost a month then, for what is accom- plished in two days now, from the Salt Works, in Wythe County, to Eichmond.
To reach Broad street from Main street, was almost as difficult a task as the ascent of a small mountain. Thirteenth, or Governor street, was at the same base as now, but the present height of the Governor's grounds, on that street, show what was its ascent, which was furrowed with gullies. The only other route was across the Capitol square, diago- nally from Eleventh to Tenth street, near where St. Paul's Church now stands. This road, as well as the other, was usually washed into gullies by every hard rain, and the stiff red clay would sometimes form almost a close mass between the spokes of the wheels.
A most dilapidated old wooden house on Broad street, west of Sixth, or a portion of it, is now in course of demolition. It has long- been an eyesore to passengers. Of late years the upper part has been the nestling place of
5*
54 EICHMOXD IN BY-GOXE DATS.
families of the plebeian class of free negroes, and tlie signs of tlie occupants were obvions at tbe windows, wliicli were decorated, and also protected against the intrusion of light and air, by old hats and bundles of rags. The cellar was also sometimes a receptacle for rags, besides old iron, broken glass, and other commodities, destined, in regenerated forms, possibly, to aid in the decoration of a palace. Between these upper and lower regions, (the one not tenanted by angels, nor the other by devils,) was the ground floor, on which were shops for the sale of old raiment for the outer man, some of it almost fit for the win- dow blinds of the upper or the bag of the lower tenants; and, for the comfort of the inner man, a cheap repast of cow-heel, tripe, and hoe-cake, or a refreshing dram, whose spirit was not betrayed by its colour. To complete the conveniences of this bazaar, there was a receptacle for dilapidated furni- ture— tables and chairs, scarcely able to stand on their own legs, much less to sustain the dishes that were to be served, or the guests that were to be seated on them — cradles -with- out rockers, and bedsteads already tenanted. This description applies, however, to only two-thirds of the extensive premises — the other third may perhaps be a dower right,
BROAD STREET. 55
and, consequently, if a lady's possession, much better cared for. Whilst the rest of the an- cient edifice has been the victim first of dis- grace, and now of demolition, the remaining portion seems to be occupied as a thriving shop for the sale of all sorts of commodities for daily use and consumption. Its neat block cornice and ancient front only requires a coat of paint to restore its good looks — like some other faded antiquities. The gutter in front was sometimes enlivened by the prattle of ragged and dirty and happy children, who were busily employed in making dirt pies, and baking them in dirt ovens, moulded on their bare feet ; while a few chickens pecked and scratched on the unpaved sidewalk, un- less frightened off by a hungry dog, who envied them the invisible repast, which they seemed to enjoy.
My first recollection of this late populous habitation, was when the sign 6f Richards'' s tavern swung before the door ; the portico occupied by inveterate tobacco chewers, who kept the footway well sprinkled for some yards before them — but this was in the middle age of the ancient structure, which was probably coeval with the survey of the street on which it stood, near the entrance of the town, and on the great highway to it of
56 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
tlie " outer inliabitants-," as Col. Byrcl desig- nated the people of the ujDper country. It was originally, no doubt, the principal "house of entertainment" for those outsiders. The dusty or more generally miry street in front of it, was made lively by the fleets of wagons from the Blue Eidge, and vocal with the jing- ling of the peals of bells, attached to the har- ness of the stout horses, who seemed proud of the music, as well as of the bear-skin mantillas which protected their withers, of the rosettes of red and yellow galoon which deco- rated their bridles, and of the same gaudy materials with which their plaited tails were tied — when not in fly time.
Now-a-days, we occasionally see one of these mountain ships ; but the muddy road they toiled through in former days, is now tra- versed by the iron horse, and his piercing screams have silenced the grateful neighings of his noble predecessor.
In the early days of the house last de- scribed. Main street was not practicable west of Eleventh, nor was Ninth street a highway, or rather, it was a high way^ not to be as- cended to Broad street by wheels. The formation of Broad street across the valley is in the memory of many of my readers, if many I shall have.
CAPITOL SQUAEE. 57
CHAPTER YI.
THE CAPITOL AND THE SQUARE.
THE Capitol SquarewsiS originally as rugged a piece of ground as many of our hill- sides in the country exhibit after a ruinous course of cultivation. Deep ravines furrowed it on either side, and May and Jamestown weeds decorated and perfumed it in undis- turbed luxuriance. On each side of the capi- tol was a long horse-rack, for the convenience of the public and to diversify the odour. In front of the portico stood an unpainted wooden belfry, somewhat resembling the dairys we see at good farm-houses. The portico might then be reached by a narrow, winding stone stair- way, now closed, which gave to the goats and kids, who sported in numbers about the grounds, a convenient access to the portico, where they found shelter in wet weather. A few of the original forest trees, oaks and pines, which had escaped the barbarous refinement of clearing away native growths to be sup- planted by exotics, constituted the only relief to the dismal aspect of the grounds, except a
53 EICHMOND IN BY-GOXE DAYS.
few cTiinquepin buslies, whicb. served to prick the fingers of boys in due season, and a copious and luxuriant growth of thistles, whose down, in a good breeze, resembled a snow storm.
Between the Governor's house and the Capitol was a high stone wall, near the line of the street, built to close the upper end of an immense ravine (now a shady dell), and over this wall, after a heavy fall of rain, flowed a great body of water, forming a fine rose-tinted cascade.
The ugly Guard-liouse and belfry, now dis- figuring the square, was preceded by a much uglier edifice : a shabby, old, second-hand, wooden house, occupied as barracks by the Public Guard, under the command of Captain Quarrier. The grounds immediately around it were bedecked with the shirts of the sol- diers and the chemises of their wives, which flaunted on clothes-lines, and pigs, poultry and children enlivened the scene.
The Ca])itol itself, not then stuccoed, exposed its bare brick walls between the columns or pilasters. The roof was once flat, if I mistake not, and paved with tiles, and, like Noah's Ark, " was pitched without, with pitch." But as a hot sun caused the pitch to flow down the gutters, and the rains to enter the halls, an
CAPITOL SQUARE. 59
elevated roof was substituted. In process of time, tlie attic thus formed was converted into an arsenal. The building and the fire-arms being perhaps considered fire-proof, or the risk not considered at all. Even at this day, a most valuable deposit, the State Library^ is at risk in the combustible upper part of the Capitol, and the inestimable statue of Washington^ by Houdon^ may one day be destroyed, as was Canova's spendid one at Ealeigh, N. C. A handsome fire-proof building should be erected for the preservation of both, and of other ob- jects of value.
The Governor's House preceding the present one, was a very plain wooden building of two stories, with only two moderate sized rooms on the first floor. It was for many years unconscious of paint, and the furniture was in keeping with the republican simplicity of the edifice, and of its occupants, from Henry and Jefferson down to Monroe and Page. The palings around the yard were "usually in a dilapidated condition, and the goats that sported on the steep hill sides of the Capitol Square, claimed and exercised the liberty of grazing on his Excellency's grounds.
The cows are now endeavoring to establish a similar claim to the grass and onions on
60 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
the public square, in tlie very face of the sentry*
The old residence of the Governors of Vir- ginia might usually have boasted that, if it had in itself no claims to distinction, its occu- pants had many.
Two articles of furniture of the colonial times are extant in the Capitol, namely : the Sj^eaJcer^s chair of the House of Burgesses, originally decorated with the royal arms. This was removed from Williamsburg, and is now, though shorn of its regal emblems, occu- pied by the Speaker of the House of Dele- gates.
The tall stove which warmed those colonial and independent halls, in succession, for about sixty years, and for the last twenty-five has served to warm the central hall, in which stands Houdon's statue of Washington, is a work of note. This stove bears also the British arms and other embellishments in re-
* Since writing the above, posts have been planted at each gate, about two feet apart, which, while they exclude the cows, may also practi- cally exclude fashionable ladies from the Capitol Square, now that the Eugetiie hoops have become in vogue, and are adopted indiscriminately by those who have or have not the same motive that induced the Empress to introduce them. It would be impracticable for a fashion- able hoop, without considerable coaxing, to pass between the barriers which are placed to obstruct the entrance of the cows.
CAPITOL SQUAEE. 61
lief, and tliey remain perfect, being as inde- structible as the structure tliey decorate, for the stove is truly a structure of three stories.
The founder of it, Buzaglo, was proud of his work, and when it was shipped from Lon- don, he thus writes to " My Lord" (Botetourt,) dated August 15th, 1770 : " Tlie elegance of worJcmansMp does honour to Great Britain. It excels in grandeur anything ever seen of the kind, and is a master-piece not to he equalled in all Europe. It has met with general applause, and could not he sufficiently admired ///" The reader is advised to draw a long breath, and pause awhile, till his admiration subsides.
This " warming machine," as Buzaglo called it, this master-piece of art and science, doomed to carry his name to posterity, was presented to the House of Burgesses by the Duke of Beaufort. It has survived three British mon- archs, and been cotemporaneous with three kingly monarchies, two republics and two imperial governments in France — but of only one constellation of republics in the United States, — I hope and trust " one and indivisihle, now and forever P''
The grounds of the Capitol Square were originally laid out by Mons. Godefroi, a French
G
62 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
gentleman of skill and taste, according to the formal style, where
" Grove nods at grove, each alley has its brother, And half the terrace just reflects the other."
He certainly reduced cliaos to order, and made the grounds very handsome, and won- derfully regular, considering their original irregularity. But now "half the terrace" does not "reflect the other." The west side has been modernized according to an irregular plan, adapted to it by Mr. Notman, of Phila- delphia. Some dozen flights of stone steps are dispensed with ; the straight lines of trees are being gradually thrown into disorder. But the east side, like a prim old maid, retains its formality for the present, and serves to show the contrast between the formal and the picturesque styles. But the great and striking embellishment of the square will be the Washington Monument^ now ready for the erection of the statuary on their pedestals.
OLD EESIDENCES. 63
CHAPTER YII.
OLD RESIDENCES.
WHEN Shochoe hill began to change its aspect from fields and forests, to streets and squares, the greater portion of the latter was held by wealthy and by profes- sional gentlemen. The bar of Richmond toward the close of the last century possessed a greater number of members of distin- guished talent, than almost any other in the Union — and many of them resided on Shockoe hill.
To each residence, with few exceptions, was attached the ground of an entire square of two acres, or at least that of half a square. A strong contrast to what may now be seen, when the old domicile and its appurtenances are supplanted and occupied by twenty or more tenements If the crowding system continues to contract our space, we may pre- sently emulate the bee-hive system of Balti- more, where a man can scarcely stand with his arms a-kimbo on his front steps, without jostling his neighbor, if he happens to be in a similar position.
64 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
Among the oldest and most respectable of tlie occupants of Shockoe hill was the Ambler family, of which the Treasurer Jaquelin Amhler was the head — his own residence yet stands, between Marshall and Clay streets, and is occupied by one of his sons-in-law. His daughters were married to gentlemen who built their dwellings not far from the paternal mansion, and a distinguished circle they formed. Chief Justice (then General) Marshall is entitled to priority. His resi- dence yet stands on the street named in his honor, but the grounds have been reduced one half, and a number of fine dwellings erected on them, between Eighth and ISTinth streets. Of Judge Marshall I will not pre- sume to say more, than, that his personal appearance and deportment as a citizen were of the most unpretending character — of true republican simplicity — but natural, not as- sumed— his dress was plain even to negli- gence, of which he seemed unconscious. He marketed for himself, and might be seen at an early hour returning home, with a pair of fowls, or a basket of eo^s's in his hand, not with ostentatious humility, but for mere con- venience. His style of travelling to and from Ealeigh, N. C, about 175 miles each
OLD KESIDENCES. 65
way, to preside at the Federal Court held there, was for many years, in that primitive sort of vehicle, a stick gig, (or chair as it was then called) with one horse and with no attendant. The modest and imassuming sim- plicity of his character is evinced to the last, in the inscription which he directed for his tombstone :
" John Marshall, son of Thomas and Mary Marshall, was born the 24th of September, 1755. Intermarried with Mary Willis Ambler, the 3d of January, 1783. Departed this life the 6th of July, 1835."
A fine and correct portrait of Judge Mar- shall and of some other old citizens, may be seen in the studio of the worthy artist Mr. Martin. This portrait of the Chief Justice should decorate some public hall.
Col. Edward Carrington^ also a soldier of the Revolution, married another of the Misses Ambler, a most excellent lady, as was each of her sisters. He was a member of the Old Congress in 1785-6. The high estima- tion in which Col. Carrington was held by his personal friend General Washington, is shown by his selection of him to be Quarter Master General, when in 1798 war with
6*
6Q EICHMOXD IN BY-GONE DAYS.
France was expected, and an organization of officers formed for the crisis.
Under John Adams's administration, Col. Carrinoton held the office of Commissioner of the Eevenue of the United States for Vir- ginia ; direct taxes being then resorted to, in consequence of the depredations on onr com- merce.
The very humble edifice, yet standing, shaded by an old Catalpa tree, at the north- west corner of Marshall and Eleventh streets, was the office of the Commissioner. His resi- dence which was demolished a few years ago, was on the same square, fronting on Clay street. Col. Carrington was a man of digni- fied deportment, which was well sustained by his tall and massive figure. He was a pure patriot, and pure in all the relations of life. He died October 28th, 1810— aged 61.
Daniel Call, a distinguished lawyer, mar- ried another of the sisters Ambler, and his residence on the square between the Capitol and Broad street, was also taken down a few years ago to be substituted by Mr. Valen- tine's large store.
George Fisher married a fourth sister, and he, a retired merchant, and one of our oldest citizens, is the survivor of all that I have
OLD RESIDENCES. 67
mentioned, and is tlic occupant of tlie patri- archal mansion of Treasurer Ambler.
One other of the name, Major Ambler, had his residence and domain nearly opposite to Col. Carrington's on the brow of the hill com- manding a splendid landscape, where Mrs. Bruce's fine mansion has supplanted its ruinous predecessor. Previous to Major Ambler's occupancy, it was the residence of Lewis Burwell, a gentleman of the old school in dress and style of living.
Judge P. N. Nicholas resided on the oppo- site square, and B. Watkins Leigh, the emi- nent jurist and statesman, on the adjoining one ; but many years later than the old resi- dents I have named. The house he occupied was built by Dr. McClurg, whose grand- daughter Miss Wickham, was Mr. Leigh's second wife. The name of Leig his distin- guished in our annals, civil and political.
On the square east of Treasurer Ambler's, was the mansion of Col. John Harvie, Eegis- ter of the Land Office. He removed to the fine country seat, Belvidere, built by Col. Byrd, the son of the founder of Eichmond, beyond its western limit, and commanding an extensive view of the surrounding country. After passing through various hands, its last
68 EICHMOND IN BY- GONE DAYS.
occupants were a number of families of iron workers, and thus, "fallen from its high es- tate," it was recently destroyed by fire.
The city residence of Col. Harvie, shaded by noble elms, became that of the celebrated lawj^er, John Wickham, the eloquent, the witty, and the graceful. After him, it had many successive occupants.
To A FAIR FRIEND, WHO WAS AMONG THE LATEST OF THESE, AND ONE OF THE BRIGHTEST, GENTLEST, AND FAIREST, THAT HAD GRACED THOSE HALLS, AND WHO GRACED THEM FOR SEVERAL YEARS, THESE PAGES ARE DEDICATED.
Mr. Wickham sold this residence, and erected a splendid dwelling on the same square. The site of the former one is now occupied by the spacious edifice of the Bap- tist Female Institute.
A son of Col. Harvie, with a higher mili- tary title, and who married a daughter of Judge Marshall, built on and occupies the square north of the Ambler house."
On Marshall street, opposite to the Ambler square, we now pass the former residence of Alexander Botts, a learned member of the bar, who was one of the victims of the con- flagration at the theatre, in 1811. He was
* This gentleman died since the above was written.
OLD EESIDENCES. 69
the father of John Minor Botts, the conspicu- ous politician.
On the same square with Mr. Botts's, stands the many-angled house erected by Alexander McRae, a lawyer of eminence, but, in the latter part of his career, Consul at Paris. When a candidate for the legislature on one occasion, his opponent was Samuel McCraw, also a lawyer, who occupied a square at the upper end of Grace street — now Mr. Tate's. During the canvass, a brother lawyer, whose talents, unlike Mr. McRae's, greatly exceeded in proportion his corporeal dimensions, com- posed a sort of parody of one of Swift's effusions, but not like that, obnoxious to de- cency, running thus —
" Hurray for McRae and Ilurrau for McCraw ! Hurray and Hurrau for McRae and McCraw ! Hurrau for McCraw and Hurray for McRae ! Hurrau and Hurray for McCraw and McRae ! Hurrau for McRae and Hurray for McCraw ! Hurray and Hurrau for McRae and McCraw ! Hurray for McCraw and Hurrau for McRae! Hurrau and Hurray for McCraw and McRae ! ! "
At a subsequent election, Mr. McRae being present when Mr. Thomas Taylor voted for the candidate whose cause Mr. McRae espoused, he said, "Mr. Taylor, that is the first correct vote you ever gave." " Perhaps
70 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
it is," replied Mr. T. in his blandest manner, " for I once gave a vote to you, Mr. McEae."
Continuing up Marshall street we pass the Eailway work-shops, where formerly stood the residence of George Pickett, and nearly opposite stands that erected by his partner, Eobert Pollard — the quiet and peaceable gen- tleman, who offered, a little sarcastically, to relinquish his horse rather than stand a law- suit.
As I have introduced Mr. Pickett, I am reminded of an instance of Yankee cuteness, which I heard him relate. A Connecticut trader came to Eichmond with a cargo of Yankee notions, and in addition to the cus- tomary medley he had a few casks of fine Madeira wine. In seeking customers for such commodities he would of course call on Mr. Pickett. He proffered to him a bargain in apples, onions, fish and Hingham buckets, at all which, particularly the onions and fish, Mr. Pickett turned up his nose. The trader then mentioned the wine, at which Mr. P. rather smacked his lips, and was invited, with some other connoisseurs, to test its flavor. It proved quite satisfactory and the price was not unreasonable. Mr. P. who was not dull at bargaining, told the Yankee that he had
OLD EESIDENCES. 71
no money to lay out in wine, but lie had some "Western lands on the Ohio, and if they would serve for payment, he would take a few casks. The Yankee demurred at the barter but would consider of it, if Mr. P. would take the " Sarce" and other notions ; which being disdainfully rejected, the chaf- fering was closed — or rather suspended ; for soon after the trader called at Mr. P.'s count- ing room in a careless way, and the offer of the lands was repeated, and that of the onions, &c., urged as a sine qua non. At length the Yankee asked to look at the land warrants and surveys, and from among them, selected one or more, which he said contained as much land as he could take. The prices were after due higgling agreed on, the barter was made and so were the conveyances. After the deeds and the wines had been duly delivered, Mr. Pickett said to " the party of the second part," "Now, my friend, let me give you a piece of advice, don't again buy wild lands unless you have seen them." The Yankee thanked Mr. P. for his advice, and not willing to be exceeded in generosity, said he " would offer some in return, which was, never to sell wild lands until you have seen them." " Why," said Mr. P. " what do you
72 RICHMOND IN BY- GONE DAYS.
know about tlie laud ?" To wliicli the reply w^s " I liave traded on the Ohio and looked about the country ; examined the soil and the advantages of situation, and found out who were the o^vners of such as I liked best. In fact Mr. Pickett, I came to Eichmond to buy this tract of land from you. It contains water power and other advantages, and I would not part with it for five times what it cost me." This land was, if I am not misin- formed, at the confluence of the Muskingum and Ohio, and became the site of Marietta.
I will also mention a curious circumstance I heard from Mr. Pollard. A man in Con- necticut wrote to him, requesting that Mr. P. would address a letter to him, stating his wish to buy a certain piece* of land in the "West, for which he would give a good price, say §10,000, promising that the offer should not be used to Mr. P.'s injury, nor should he be considered as committing himself by it. The applicant added, that he wished to use the letter to effect a sale he had in view, and he would on any other occasion render a similar service to Mr. Pollard!
Charles Johnson, afterwards President of the Farmers' Bank in Lynchburg, was a partner with Pickett &; Pollard, and these
OLD KESIDEiS-CES. 73
gentlemen dealt very largely in "Western lands, wliich may account for the two affairs I have mentioned.
Mr. Johnston, when a very young man, in 1789, accompanied a party in an attempt to descend the Ohio. They were made prisoners by the Indians, most of them killed, and he, one of the few survivors, after dreadful suf- ferings, and once even at the point of being burned at the stake, was, after a long march, sold to a humane Frenchman, an Indian trader from Detroit, who carried Mr. Johnston there, treated him most kindly and furnished him with the means of returning home. Many years afterwards Mr. Johnston had the satisfaction of welcoming in Yirginia his deliverer, Mr. Dechouquet. A narrative of these events was published by Mr. Johns- ton in 1827.
The large and respectable old mansion on the summit of Gamble's hill, overlooking the Armory, and all the country around, was erected, but left unfinished by Colonel Kan- dolph (the father of Governor T. M. Ean- dolph), whose second wife was the daughter of Colonel J. Ilarvie, of Belvidere, and after the death of Colonel Eandolph, became the wife of Dr. John Brockenbrough, who was
7
74 EICHMOXD IX BY-GOXE DAYS.
for many years Cashier and President of the Bank of Virginia, and more recently pro- prietor of tlie Warm Springs, where he died in 1853.
The mansion was purchased and finished and occupied by Colonel Robert Gamble, who in advanced years, but still an active mer- chant, and I should add a most estimable citizen, was accidentally killed by being thrown from his horse. His sons and part- ners in trade, John and Eobert, were valuable citizens in both civil and military capacities. The former commanded the Light Infantry Blues, and the latter the Richmond Troop of Horse, and were in service in the war of 1812. They were among the first adventurers to Florida'; after its cession to the United States, and among its most enterprizing and valuable citizens. John died in 1853, and Robert is yet an active and energetic man. AYhen the Indians were committing depreda- tions around him, he remained unharmed, because he had always been kind to them. One of their sisters became the wife of TTil- liam Wirt, and the other of W. H. Cabell, at one time Governor of Virginia, and after wards President of the Court of Appeals.
The extensive erounds around the old
OLD EESIDEXCES 75
mansion "have been divided and subdivided until but a small portion remains attached to it. It is now flanked on one side by a Gotliio tower, on tbe very apex of the bill ; a distant view of wbicb gives to tbe bill a Rhenisb aspect; but in tbe good old colonel's time tbe visitor at a nearer view would more likely be reminded of Madeira.
Tbe following ludicrous anecdote is related by Kennedy in bis Life of Wirt, concerning some of tbe personages above named. It occurred, in 1803, wben Mr. Wirt was await- ing Colonel Gamble's sanction to bis marriage witb Miss Gamble.
"Colonel Gamble bad occasion, one sum- mer morning, to visit bis future son-in-law's office. It unluckily happened tbat Wirt bad tbe nigbt before, brought some young friends there, and they bad had a merry time of it, which so beguiled the hours, that even now, at sunrise, they had not separated. The Colonel opened the door, little expecting to find any company there at that hour. His eyes fell on the strangest group ! There stood Wirt with the poker in his right hand, the sheet iron blower on his left arm, which was thrust through the handle ; on his head was a tin washbasin, and as to the rest of his
76 RICHMOXD IN BY-GOXE DAYS.
dress, it 'was liot weather and tlie hero of this grotesque scene had dispensed with as much of his trappings as comfort might require, substituting for them a light ^\Tapper, that greatly aided the theatrical effect. There he stood, in this whimsical caparison, reciting with srreat o-esticulation Falstaff's onset on the thieves, his back to the door. The opening of it attracted the attention of all. We may imagine the queer look of the anxious probationer, as Colonel Gamble, with grave and mannerly silence, bowed and with- drew, closing the door behind him without the exchange of a word."
The spot on which the First Presbyterian Church now stands was formerly occupied by the humble residence of a distinguished man and eminent lawyer, Edmund Randoljjh^ who erected and afterwards occupied the mansion between that church and the City Hall.
On the square west of the Capitol, and on part of which stands St. Paul's Church, Bush- rod Washington built a small office, which may yet be seen in rear of the church. I will venture to record an anecdote which I have heard of this distinguished gentleman and his illustrious relative. When practicing law in Eichmond, in early life, during the
OLD RESIDENCES. 77
presidency of Washington^ his friends urged Bushrod Wasliington to apply for tlie office of district attorney in the United States Court for Virginia. lie did so, but, it is said, with some hesitation. Washington in reply, asked him if he had perceived anything ia his con- duct to justify such a request, and whether he could suppose that he would use the patronage of his office for the benefit of any one connected with him, however worthy? I cannot vouch for the truth of this, but I am strongly impressed with it, and I may add that the principle was not adopted as a precedent by Washington's successors ; some of whom pursued a diametrically opposite course, and seemed to consider consanguinity a sufficient qualification for office, without any other. Bushrod Washington was deemed worthy by his uncle's successor to fill a much higher station, and was appointed one of the Justices of the Supreme Court. He resided at Mount Yernon after the death of Washing- ton, but removed from Kichmond, I think, previously to that event.
The square on which his office stands was purchased by George Hay, a lawyer of emi- nence, who became District Attorney under Mr. Jefferson, and who erected the present
'i'^
78 EICHMO^^D m BY-GOXE DAYS.
residence, fronting tlie Capitol square. He was prosecuting attorney at the trial of Aaron Burr, and liad to encounter an array of talent rarely exceeded at any bar — but be did not figbt single banded, tbougb against great odds.
On tbe square soutb of tbe Capitol, wbere tbe United States is now erecting a Court Eoom, Custom House and Post Office, re- sided one of tbe most eminent pbysicians and talented men of bis time — wbicb is no faint praise. I mean Dr. James McClurg. He served in tbe Medical staff during tbe Eevo- lutionary war, and was declared to be tbe most skilful and accomplisbed medical officer in tbe division of tbe army, serving in tbis part of tbe Union. He was a member of tbe Convention tbat formed tbe Constitution of tbe United States, but did not sign it.
His original residence in Kicbmond was a small Dutcb roofed wooden bouse, recently de- molisbed, as bas been a portion of tbe larger one of brick erected near it by tbe doctor, and afterwards occupied by tbe Bank of Vir- ginia. His tbird and most spacious dwelling was built on Grace street, tbe grounds at- tached to it extending to Broad street. Kow sborn of a large portion of superfluous terri-
OLD RESIDENCES. 79
tory, but retaining a spacious one it is occu- pied by Dr. C. B. Gibson. A short biogra- phy of Dr. McClurg, who was the uncle of Dr. McCaw, has been published by a grand- son of the latter.
On the square west of the last mentioned residence on Grace street, stood the old fash- ioned double winged, triple porticoed house of Major Du Val, one of the last of the cocked hats, satin shorts and bag wigs.
For the information of my younger readers I will tell them, that a bag wig was furnished with a black silk plaited appendage, some- thing like a lady's reticule, (and entitled to the appellation of a gentleman's ridicule). The queue or tail of the wig was inserted into this bag, which was drawn tightly at the top to retain the hair and dangled behind like a pendulum.
The Du Yal lot was said to be the scene of Ealph Eingwood's adventure as told by Washington Irving. It was afterwards occu- pied by the celebrated AYilliam Wirt, but like many cotemporary wooden structures, it has of late years changed its location, and retired to one in the suburbs.
On the opposite square stood the unpre- tending abode of that learned, wise and ex-
/
80 RICHMOND IX BY- GONE DATS.
cellent man, George "Wytlie, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence, and whose life is interwoven with the history of Yirginia, from his early manhood to his latest years.
He was a conspicuous member of the Con- vention that formed the Federal Constitution, but did not sign it ; ten years previously to which, on the organization of the govern- ment of Yirginia, he w^as appointed Chan- cellor of the Court of Equity, which arduous ofiice he filled until his death. This occurred on the 8th of June, 1806, and was believed to have been caused by poison, administered by a youthful relative whom he had cherished and who expected to inherit his estate — but no convicting evidence was adduced. The miscreant was disappointed in his object, for Mr. Wythe had changed his will and disin- herited him a few days before his death.
Does any tombstone mark the spot where this good and wise and learned jiirist and patriot was buried ? Yirginia would honor herself more than she would him by such a memorial.
The square on which he resided was pre- eminent as was its owner. It was on the highest spot in the City, as ascertained by Mr. Watkins, who first surveyed it, and who
OLD RESIDENCES. 81
erected a small dwelling on the same square, which was taken down not many years ago, to be replaced by Mr. Dunlop's residence.
On the square west of the Chancellor's, an<! at the corner of Franklin and Fifth streets, lived John Warden, a Scotchman — one of the best read and worst featured, most good tempered and most ill formed ; but amon ^ the most well informed members of the EicL- mond bar — his mind and body were a bun- dle of contrasts. His ugliness was so at- tractive and so strongly marked, that the boys used to amuse themselves in drawing likenesses of his short thick figure, crooked legs and satyr-like features on the walls of the Court room. But his talents, wit and humor compensated for the externals, in which nature had been so niggardly.
On one occasion in Court, when Mr. Wick- ham and Mr. Hay were adverse counsel, the former got the latter into a dilemma. On which Mr. Warden whispered to Mr. AVirt, " Habet fenum in cornu,"^ who extemporised the following Epigram :
" Wickham one day in open court Was toFsiny;nay about for sport: Jock rich in Wit and Latin too, Cried " Habet feuum in cornu."
•* " He has hay on his horns." The Romans tied hay un the horns
82 EICHMOXD IX BY-GOXE DAYS.
Mr. Warden retained with bis broad Scotcli dialect liis allegiance to tlie mother country, and looked rather contemptuously on Repub- licanism in its infancy, and on its rebel repre- sentatives. The following is ascribed to him, and also to a brother Scotchman — I cannot say which is entitled to it. During a session of the Legislature, he was reported to have uttered contemptuous expressions concerning that body. The Sergeant-at-arms arrested and brought him to the bar of the house. The Speaker charged him with the offence and required him to retract it on his knees, or he should be sent to prison. The sarcastic Scot assumed the prescribed humble position, and thus apologized: "Mr. Speaker, I con- fess I did say that your honors were not fit to carry guts to a bear — I now retract that assertion, and acknowledge that you are fit." Then slowly rising, he brushed the dust from his knees — muttered "a dommed dirty hoose," made his bow and retired, amid the mirth and mortification of the members and the bystanders.
The residence of the celebrated and eccen-
of mischieTons Cattle, both as a caution and as. a protoction to those ■who approached them. Hence the tei-m was applied to "a dangerous fellow."
OLD EESIDEXCES. 83
trie Alexander Campbell was tlie same that Mr. Warden afterwards occupied. His name appears in tlie constellation of lawyers that shone in the early days of the Commonwealth. He was a materialist in faith, or rather in the lack of faith, and in the singular will he made, in 1795, he says, " I hope no tombstone will be raised over me, because it will merelv hin- der something from growing on the spot. If all men had tombstones erected over their graves, the earth, in a few centuries, would be one entire pavement."
Descending Fifth street from Mr. Warden's, we first pass the house surmounted by a cupola (a questionable ornament to a dwell- ing), once occupied by John Barrett, the father of the gentleman who now lives near the same spot. AYe next pass the square formerly occupied by the Singleton family, now by Mr. Hobson and other gentlemen, and then we descend to the square of William Hay, on which a tall coUonade is now seen, and many other buildings are erected. Opposite to this is the handsome residence, built and lono- occu- pied by Joseph Marx, an enterjorising mer- chant and valuable citizen. Here terminated the residences in old times, except that of William Munford, who filled the office of Clerk
84: EICHMOND -IN" BY-GONE DAYS.
of the House of Delegates for many years, and left a worthy successor to the station in 1:l3 eldest son. The metrical translation of Homer, by Mr. Mnnford, published after his death, is pronounced, by eminent Greek schol- ars, to be the most faithful one extant.
The house now occupied by John Eobert- son Esq., (late Judge,) was, more than fifty years ago, the residence of his father, William Kobertson, Clerk of the Council, who there reared a large family. Boiling Eobertson, Governor of Louisiana, was one of his sons, and others were not undistinguished. They are descendants of Pocahontas, as the names of several members indicate. That Princess must have possessed a greater share of beauty than her portraits exhibit, if we may judge by that of her female descendants, who are distinguished for it.
The spacious square on Franklin street be- tween Second and Third, retained its full dimensions during about fifty years' occupancy by its quiet and unaspiring proprietor, An- thony Eobinson, except that, in the latter years of his life, he apportioned a part of it to one of his sons, on which to erect a resi- dence. His own yet stands.
An antique dwelling, half brick, half wood,
OLD RESIDENCES, 85
with tlie square on v^laicli it stood, on the sontli side of Main, between Second and Third streets, was the residence many years ago, of Major Andrew Dunscombe, a soldier of the Eevolation and a gentleman of the olden time. He was, I think, a Master in Chancery of Judge Wythe's Court, and if I mistake not, he erected Goodall's tavern (the Indian Queen), since called the Washington^ and now the Monumeyit. The small brick office which he occupied has just now (1855) been taken down, to make room for an addition to the hotel. The name of Dunscombe, most worthily repre- sented by the Major, no longer exists in our community. A brother of his was Clerk of the Federal Court in New York many years ago.
Among the broad spaces formerly occu^Died by old citizens, was the square extending from Franklin to Main and from Seventh to Eighth streets, on which stood, on the summit of a high hill, the residence of Archibald^ Blair, Clerk of the City Council, opposite to where the United Presbyterian Church now stands. At the foot of the hill was a pond, fed by a spring and shaded by forest trees and shrubs. The hill and the trees have been cut down, the pond has been filled up, and
8
86 EICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS,
Mr. Stewart's row of fine dwellings covers a part of tlie leveled surface. The front on Main street remains unimproved, and less attractive than when in a state of nature. Mr, Blair's territories extended over one or two other squares, which have also submitted to the leveling system.
His*neighbor, John Graham, a Scotchman, and among the first to engage in coal-mining, transplanted his vineyard from Main and Twelfth street, (where a tall edifice and seve- ral less aspiring ones rear their fronts) to the square above Mr. Blair's, now built up chiefly by Mr. William Allen. A portion of this square contains the former residence of the late Mr. John Kobinson, for fifty years clerk of various Courts, according to the changes of organization, and one of his sons became his successor in that which he last filled. His other sons are distinguished, one as a jurist, and two others by their connexion with rail- roads. Another portion of the Graham square contains the fine edifices erected by the Messrs. James and occupied as the Arlington House. Such was the inequality of the ground in this part of the city, that Mr. Allen had to baild two stones above the foundations to reach
OLD RESIDEXCES. 87
the surface of tTie street, while on the next square the original surface was as high as the second stories of the present dwellings.
On an adjoining square, Mr. Edward Cun- ningham, an Irish gentleman, engaged in the milling and mercantile business, erected a capacious dwelling, afterwards the residence of the late Dr. Watson, and still occupied by his family.
The occupant of this lot in the last century was John Dobie whose house now forms an office within the yard. He was the architect of the Capitol, if not a capital architect, as the want of symmetry in the columns of that building would imply.
One of the dwellings between the Washing- ^ ton Tavern and the Catholic church was the residence of John Brown, for many years Clerk of the General Court, and a most accom- plished one in all that regarded the duties of the station. In his office and under his in- struction, was formed that corps of clerks so distinguished for the beauty and neatness of their records, in many Virginia courts, some years ago. John Eobinson was one of them, and served for fifty years after the death of his predecessor. Mr. Brown accompanied General Marshall as his secretary, when he went to
88 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DATS.
Paris 'vrith Pinckney and Gerry, Enyoys Extraordinary to the FrencTi republic. James Brown Jr., late Auditor, is the only surviving member of his father's family.
Two fine elm trees, planted probably be- fore the introduction of those upstarts, the Lombardy poplars, are all that remain to designate the former residence, at the corner of Broad and Seventh streets, of John Hop- kins, Commissioner of Loans of the United States, and of the distinguished occupant who succeeded him, John A. Chevallie, of whom I shall probably take occasion to speak else- where.
On the north side of Broad, between Sec- ond and Third streets, yet stands a wooden building (as most of that date were), the for- mer residence of the Braxton family, whose inclosure embraced the square — now built up with shops, the names on which would indi- cate a German colony. Indeed, the line of Broad street is occupied chiefly by Germans, as is a considerable portion of many other streets. The Braxtons removed to their estates on the Pamunky many years ago, and that family and the community, sustained a heavy loss about two years since, in the sud-
OLD RESIDENCES. S9
den deatli of General Braxton, of Cliericoke, a most estimable man and useful citizen.
The dwelling at tlie south-west corner of Grace and Seventh streets, with the front ex- tending to Sixth, including the ground now occupied by the Rev. Mr. Woodbridge, was in 1800 the residence of Mr. Brjdie, a Scotch merchant of the firm of McClure, Brydie k Co. Mr. McClure was a gentleman of scien- tific pursuits, and his name will be found in annals of that character.
Mr. McCredie, who on the death of Mr. Brydie, became his successor both in his mer- cantile and domestic establishments, met with his death in a manner that created great excitement in the city. On occasion of an alarm of fire, he was hastening across the Capitol Square, when the sentry hailed him. He did not hear, or did not heed the challenge, and the sentry most unwarrantably fired and shot him dead.
The commercial house of McClure, Brydie & Co., was one of the first in the city in respectability as well as seniority. It was located near Shocco Warehouse, and on the steep, and now dirty alley extending down to Virginia street, may yet be seen a portion of
8*
90 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
tlie stone "wall wliicli enclosed tlieir premises of the same extent.
The death of Mr. McCredie reminds me of another that occurred near the same spot. Col. Tatem, an old soldier, and either very eccentric or deranged, and moreover poor, de- termined to close his life on the fourth of Jnlj. He took his station near the artillery, when a salute was being fired, and watching his opportunity, stepped in front of a cannon at the moment the match was applied. His body was blown to atoms.
An unpretending wooden building near the corner of Leigh and Fifth streets was the resi- dence of the Eev. Eichard Channing Moore, Bishop of Yirginia, What would an English Primate think of such a palace ?
This worthy minister was invited, in No- vember, 1813, by Bushrod Washington, then residing at Mount Yernon and E. J. Lee at Alexandria, to take charge of the Episcopal church then building at Eichmond (the Monu- mental), with the intention to make him Bishop of the Diocese, which was effected, and in 1814, he was consecrated at Philadel- phia. This reverend prelate was much be- loved, not only by those of his own church, but by the community generally. He died at
OLD RESIDENCES. 91
LyncTiburg, in Kovember, 1841, while in the performance of his episcopal duties, at the age of seventy-nine.
One of the few residences on L, now Leigh » between Seventh and Eighth streets, was that of the Southall family, a name then and now conspicnons. Their successor on Leigh street was Patrick Gibson, a respectable merchant, connected in business with a nephew of Mr. Jefferson. Of late years, Mr. Mills has been the proprietor of these extensive grounds.
I must insert a few omissions which I dis- cover in my Shocco Hill rambles. The Pow- hatan House, opposite to the City Hall, is an extension and elevation of the former resi- dence, store and strong-hold of Wright South- gate, once an officer in the British navy. A very high wall, protected against escalade by a capping of broken glass, enclosed the grounds, and each opening on the ground floor was secured by chains, bolts, bars and bells. Two of his nephews were among the most respectable and enterprising merchants in Norfolk, and one of his sons, sent penniless from home, attained to eminence and great wealth in Kentucky.
Adjoining this castle was the cottage of a worthy old couple, Jacob Cohen and his wife,
92 RICHMOXD IX BY-GOXE DAYS.
wliose residence dates back some twenty years in the last century. Their cottage is sup- planted by the handsome block of dwellings erected by Mr. Jaquelin Taylor.
Opposite to this, on Twelfth street, was the residence of Mr. Samuel Myers (lately embel- lished by Mr. Crump), and of his neighbor, Mr. Wiseham, of hospitable memory, now substituted by Mr. Morson's three fine dwel- lings.
On the theatre square, north of Mr. Myers', and built after the model of his, were the resi- dences of Mr. Prosser and Mr. Moncure, part- ners in an extensive auction business. One of these is now "the Carleton House." Mr. Myers' son has introduced a different style of architecture, and an improved one, in his dwelling adjoining the paternal homestead.
On the lot where the First Baptist Church stands, and adjoining the residence in old times, of Charles Copland, attorney, James Heron, a retired merchant and worthy citizen, was preparing to erect a comfortable residence for his old age, and commenced by building a capacious kitchen. But just as the walls were erected^ he, by the imprudent exercise of a close inspection, met with a fall which proved fatal. The kitchen, converted into a dwelling,
OLD EESIDENCES. 93
was long occupied by liis family, and by Jolin G. Blair, who married one of the daughters.
The square on the south side of Franklin, between First and Second streets, was the resi- dence of Charles Ellis, of the long existing firm of Ellis & Allan, worthy members of our community for nearly half a century. This unpretending residence, now overtopped by those around, is still occupied by his family. The square opposite to it was Mr. Ellis's gar- den, embellished by a row of fine Linden trees along its front. Most of the Lindens have dis- appeared, but have given their name to the square, now built up with fine residences. A few of the trees have survived the trimming process, their scarred trunks almost bereft of branches and of beauty. If there are " tongues in trees," as the great poet imagined, each limb would cry aloud " against the deep damnation of its taking off." Those who wantonly or tastelessly mutilate trees can have neither poetry nor " music in their souls, and are fit for treasons, stratagems and spoils." This is a general plea in favor of the groves, not a special one in the case before us. But if the Lindens have disappeared, the square can now boast of superior attractions, in beauties of a more animated nature ; and these, while yet
94 RICHMOND IN BY- GONE DAYS.
in bloom, will doubtless be severed from the parent stem, but not like tlie Lindens, to dis- appear, both root and branch.
I fear that my readers will think I am imposing on them an antiquated directory, in which thej feel as little interest as in any similar compilations ; but I trust that some of the survivors may be willing to take a retro- spect of the homes of their parents and more remote ancestors, and of others who conferred distinction on our metropolis. I will there- fore venture to continue the subject — indeed, I must do so, in justice to some memorable personages whom I have omitted as yet to mention. Among these is Albert Gallatin^ the distinguished financier and statesman. He came to Richmond a young man, entrusted with the recovery of some claims, and although he could with difficulty express himself in English, his talents were very soon discovered by Patrick Henry and others.
I will venture to relate an anecdote which I have heard concerning Mr. Gallatin, though I cannot vouch for its authenticity. When he came to Richmond, he boarded in the house of Mrs. Allegre, to whose daughter he became attached, and he asked the mother to sanction his addresses. The old lady was quite wroth
OLD EESIDENCES. 95
at his presumption, and seizing a spit, threat- ened to transfix and baste him, if he dare aspire to her daughter! She must have relented however, for the marriage took place and I hope the indignant old lady lived to see her son-in-law a member of Congress, Secretary of the Treasury, and Minister Pleni- potentiary.
It is said that Mr. Gallatin consulted Mr. Marshall (afterwards Chief Justice) about studying the law, but was advised to turn his attention to statesmanship and finance. The result proved his correct estimate of Mr. Gallatin's talents.
The taste of Mr. Gallatin, a native of Swit- zerland, would naturally prefer a hilly to a level surface, and he occupied a residence on a square between Leigh and Clay, and Seventh and Eighth streets, through which runs a deep ravine, or valley rather, for its slopes are well wooded with native growths and retain the wild aspect of nature. This house was erected by a French gentleman, and was rendered singular in appearance by its tall, round chim- neys. It was afterwards the residence of Dr. McCaw, a gentleman whom I have elsewhere spoken of, and to him succeeded Mr. Conway Kobinson, who has erected a new dwelling on
'96 RICHMOND IN BY- GONE DAYS.
the same square, wliich retains its wild, natu- ral aspect; but Mr. Gallatin's house can no longer be recognized, being divested of all its original features.
In mj progress down Fifth street, I omitted to mention the former residence of Major Gib- bon, an officer of the Kevolution, and distin- guished early in life as a leader of one section of the forlorn hope at Stony Point, in 1779. He was for many years Collector of Customs for the port of Eichmond, and resided at the corner of Main and Fifth streets. His inclosure embraced the ground now occupied by the Second Presbyterian Church and by private residences up to Franklin street.
Another extensive domicil in the same neighborhood, is opposite to Major Gibbon's, on the south side of Main street. As the pro- perty of David Meade Eandolph it embraced the entire square, on part of which stands the Second Baptist Church, several handsome dwellings and the extensive carpenter-shops uf the industrious brothers, Gibson.
Mr. Eandolph was Marshal of Virginia un- til the election of Mr. Jefferson, and being one of those federal office-holders who would " neither die nor resign," the only alternative was to remove him. A gentleman, whose
OLD RESIDENCES. 97
propensity for discovering and conferring names Avas one of his characteristics — Mr. E. W. Rootes — dubbed tbe Eandolpb establisb- ment Moldavia^ after Molly and David, its mistress and master. Mrs. Randolph was one of the remarkable and distinguished persons of her day. When her husband was deprived of the ofl&ce of Marshal, he found it necessary to sell his house and to retrench his establish- ment, which had not probably been an eco- nomical one. Mrs. R., who lacked neither energy nor industry, determined to open a boarding-house, feeling assured that those who had, in her prosperity, partaken of her hospi- tality, would second her exertions when in adversity. The friend who had named Mol- davia, now conferred on her the title of Queen, and aided in enlisting subjects for her new realm. This was on Carey street (a name which she conferred), in a house which now constitutes a small portion of the Columbian Hotel. It was then a quiet spot, with very few houses in its immediate vicinity. The Queen soon attracted as many subjects as her dominions could accommodate, and a loyal set they generally were. There were few more festive boards than the Queen's. Wit, humor and good-fellowship prevailed, but excess
9
98 EICHMOND I>T BY- GONE DAYS.
rarely. Social evenings were also enjoyed, and discord never intruded. In tlie course of a few years, noise and dnst interfered with tlie royal comfort, and the throne and its support- ers were transferred to a more pleasant palace, where they remained until the abdication of the sovereign.
Moldavia passed into the possession of Mr. Gallego, the great miller, whose name and flour are known to bakers all over the civil- ized world, and some portion of the semi- barbarous. After Mr. Gallego's death, the worthy Scotch merchant John Allan, com- monly called Jock, to distinguish him from his Irish and English namesakes, became Elector of Moldavia, and his successors retain the territory in its contracted boundaries. It was to Mr. Allan that the poet, Edgar AUan Poe, an orphan, was indebted for his educa- tion— and might have been for his promotion.
The square immediately above, and west of the Queen's ancient dominions on Carey street, now covered with blocks of warehouses, was occupied by Andrew Eonald, a native of Scot- land and an eminent lawyer, who was one of the counsel opposed to Patrick Henry in 1791, in the great suit arising from the confiscation of British debts during the war of the Kevo-
OLD RESIDENCES. 99
lntion. Mr. Konalcl's dwelling fronted the basin, or rather where the basin now is, and his garden was separated from Shocco Ware- house by the street and an open space between them. The present aspect of the place is any- thing but quiet and retired.
South from Mr. Eonald and beyond a deep ra\dne which the su]pplementary Gallego mills are now partly filling up, on the summit of a cliff overhanging the river and overlooking Haxall's mills, stands a wooden building, the former residence of the celebrated David Eoss, the original owner of the mill, a Scotch mer- chant anterior to the Eevolution. He became the possessor of most valuable lands and mines in various parts of Virginia, when Virginia was bounded by the Mississippi, and some of his descendants now reside, I believe, on a portion of his territories in the western re- gions, no longer in the Old Dominion. Mr. Eoss was remarkable for his unerring judg- ment of the talents of others.
I must travel beyond the former limits of the city to mention a territory now partly in- cluded in them. I mean the lands and for- mer residence of a most worthy citizen and enterprising merchant, the late Mr. Thomas Eutherfoord. The inclosure originally attached
100 EICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
to liis dwelling embraced -vvliat now constitutes several squares, and his possessions beyond it were very many acres. I have heard that he became possessed of this extensive territory by the judicious investment of a thousand pounds, given to him as a wedding present by an uncle in Scotland, on the occasion of his marriage.
He famished building-lots to various gen- tlemen, thus forming a good neighborhood around him, and I can recall, among those who first constituted it, the names of James Penn, John A. Chevallie, Thomas Wilson (mayor), David Bullock, William Price, Car- ter B. Page, and Eobert Gwathmey ; and in later years. General Pegram, President of the Virginia Bank, and that eminent lawyer and excellent man Samuel Taylor, both victims to casualties. I may also name G. W. Munford, Secretary of the Commonwealth, and J. E- Anderson, of iron fame, truly a man of metal, whose locomotives run on many a Southern and Western road, and whose cannon serve to arm our ships and forts. Mr. Eutherfoord's sons have clustered around the paternal man- sion, which was partially destroyed by fire while in the occupancy of John Y. Mason, now Minster to France, who became the pur-
OLD RESIDENCES. 101
cliaser and embellisher of it, but by a subse- quent sale it lias reverted to the eldest of the Rutberfoord family.
The name of John A. Chevallie has only been mentioned incidentally, but it merits a more special notice. lie was a gentleman of the most scrupulous politeness, of fine literary attainments, and of extensive and varied infor- mation. He was brought up in the ante-revo- lutionary days of French society, and his manners conformed to it. He came to this country as agent for the Count Beaumarchais, who had, either as a secret agent of Louis Xyi., or at his own outlay, furnished a large quantity of arms to the United States during the Revolutionary war. After many years of constant exertion, he succeeded in his object at last, if my memory serves.
The house of Mr. and Mrs. Chevallie, (a daughter of Judge Lyons) was the home of hospitality and cheerfulness, and a favorite resort of old and young. Previous to their residence near Mr. Rutherfoord, they occupied the house of John Hopkins, Commissioner of Loans, on Broad street corner of Seventh, now demolished, but then embowered in fine elms and sycamores.
I heard this anecdote from Mr. Chevallie,
9*
102 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
among many others: — Count Beaumarchais, although an elegant courtier, had been a watch- maker, and of course was not of the old no- bility. One of these sought to mortify him in a public assembly, by handing an elegant watch to him, saying it did not keep time, and he wished Beaumarchais to see what was amiss; who, taking it in his hands and attempting to open it, let it fall on the floor. He then expressed his regret, adding, that he had been so long out of practice he had be- come awkward, and bowing politely, he re- tired.
I must trespass on the patience of my read- ers a few moments longer, to mention the residences of some old citizens on Church Hill, &c., which should not be overlooked in story, as they cannot be in eminence of locality.
The Adams family, the original proprietors of the eastern portion of the city, occupied several of the squares in their own domain. The three brothers, Eichard, Samuel and John, who resided there fifty or sixty years ago, but lived at a later period, have long since gone to their last homes, near to their first ; but those they occupied in life have been improved in appearance under tasteful residents, as has that
OLD EESIDENCES. 103
of their distinguished neighbor and cotempo- rary, William Marshall, a brother of the Chief Justice and a lawyer of almost as great talent, which was partially obscured by his indolence.
Innis, an eminent lawyer, married a Miss Adams, and emigrated to Kentucky in its early days.
George Kicolson, once mayor of the city (as was also Dr. John Adams), resided on one of the adjacent and most commanding heights overlooking the city and the surrounding country. The land west of it and south of Mr. Marshall's, embracing the slope of the hill, has recently been purchased by the city for a public square. Mr. Nicolson's residence was destroyed by fire some years ago. His descendants are among our worthy citizens.
On Main street, near the foot of Church Hill, stood in old times and until lately, the residence of Friend Couch — a neat house, with a large garden attached. In my younger days' this square was shaded on two sides by a num- ber of spreading elms, the only row of trees on a mile of street. It was like an oasis in a desert, and furnished a refreshing shade to the pedestrian on a hot summer day — of which I can speak from experience. It was said that there were attractions also within the walls,
104 EICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
but tliese it was never mj good fortune to enter. The house, the elms, the spacious gar- den with its flowers and bee-hives, have all disappeared; even the soil itself on which they stood, has been deeply excavated, to fur- nish bricks for the erection of other structures. But some of the former occupants who culti- vated those flowers, stilt flourish, if not in immortal youth, in ripened years, engaged in the cultivation of social and benevolent avo- cations.
John Foster, a useful public servant, was one of their nearest neighbors ; his residence yet stands, partially restored from the dilapi- dations of time and fire. John Strobia, a worthy father of a worthy and yet surviving son. Friend Clarke, and Col. David Lambert, father of the late mayor, were also their neigh- bors, but more remote. Their residences may yet be traced, and also some of their descend- ants, in other parts of the city.
A short distance east of where Seabrook Warehouse is built, was the pleasant and rural- looking residence of Adam Craig, Clerk of the Hustings Court. The green slope in rear of the house was washed at its base by a clear rivulet, which now flows, mixed with less pure waters, through a culvert to Shockoe
OLD EESIDENCES. 105
creek. The Clerk's office was in a very small Dutch-roofed house, at a corner of the lot on Grace and Nineteenth streets. Here Andrew Stevenson took his first lessons in legal lore. Eobert Stanard, his cotemporary, married a daughter of Mr. Craig.
The ascent of Church Hill in old times, and even lately, could be attained by carriages on only one route — the road from Main street directly to the church-yard — and even this was "a hard road to travel," especially by funeral processions. The first time that I ascended it was on the solemn occasion of a funeral pageant, a few days after the death of Washington, when with other lads I followed at the close. Small as the population of the city then was, I doubt if a funeral procession of greater length has extended along the street than on that occasion, except at the funeral of Washington's friend and biographer, Judge Marshall, many years after.
THE MAYOR. 107
CEAPTEE YIIL
THE MAYOR. *' They laugh that win."
AMBITION prevails in every sphere, and even where it has no room " to expand itself," will seek to be the centre of a circle even of very limited circumference. Aspirants for city honors, though devoid of emolument, were as ambitious in former days as in the present. Among them was a worthy Irish blacksmith, who by dint of perseverance attained to the mayoralty, and his adminis- tration deserves to be recorded by the pen of a Knickerbocker. He was of the genuine Irish Bull breed, but his attainments in pub- lic speaking fell far short of some modern orators, of the Malaprop and Eamsbottom school, in amusing his hearers.
Butler's description of his hero, would apply to ours, for Mayor ***-»** ^ was also Captain of militia ; he was
" Chief of domestic knights and errant, Either for chartel or for warrant ; Great on the bench, great in the saddle, Th.'it could as well bind o'er as swaddle ;
108 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
Mighty he was at both of these, And styl'd of war as well as peace. But here our authors make a doubt, Whether he were more wise or stout; Some hold the one and some the other, But howsoe'er they make a pother, The diflTrence was so small, his brain Outweigh'd his rage but half a grain ; TVhich made some take him for a tool That knaves do work with, call'd a fool."
He was a strict constructionist ; and on one occasion, when applied to by an old woman for a search warrant to recover a turkey stolen from her, he referred to the magis- trate's book of forms, in which he could find no mention of turkeys ; but there was a form of a warrant to search for a stolen cow. After stating to the old lady the legal diffi- culty, he reflected a while and thus overcame it. "I will give you a warrant for a cow, and if in searching for a cow you find the tur- key, you may take possession and bring it and the thief before me." Could Sancho Panza have been more judicious ?
The worthy dignitary, by various similar exercises of his judicial functions, retained and increased his popularity, not only by administering justice, but by furnishing amusement to his constituents.
I can call to mind a practical joke played on him by a facetious member of the mu-
THE MAYOR. 109
nicipality, who asserted as a curious fact, that a bottle could not be broken in an empty bag. The Mayor expressed his disbelief; and after an argument, in which various rea- sons were assigned, pro and con, the result was a bet of a bowl of punch for all the members of the Common Council, the Mayor being the champion of fracture. A fat old Dutch humorist, who lived at the corner opposite to the market, (where boots, shoes, bread and Brandreth's pills, have of late years shod, fed and physicked the market folks,) agreed to furnish the implements wherewith to decide the wager.
A large corner stone, planted to protect the sidewalk from cart-wheels, was selected as the antagonist to the bottle. The winning par- ties, (those who were to quaff the punch,) assembled, and a crowd of curious philoso- phers surrounded them.
Mr. Darmsdadt produced the bag and the bottle, turned the sack inside out and blew into the bottle, to show that all was fair. The bottle was then bagged, and the mouth of the bag was securely tied. The Mayor seized the sack with both hands, just below the ligature, and swung it as he had formerly swung a sledge-hammer. He then brought it down
10
110 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
witli full force upon the stone. The glass rattled and the Mayor exclaimed, Yictory ! but the judges were desired to open the bag, when, lo and behold ! it was found not empty; and his honor had to stand the punch and the laugh.
Joseph Darmsdadt, one of the actors in this scene, was as well known for many years, as the market square on which he lived. He was, as his name imports, a Hessian and, as I have heard, came to this country as a sutler, with the troops that were sold by their prince, at so much per head, to fight the battles of despotism. It was, no doubt, a fortunate arrangement for those of the mer- cenary troops who, like Mr. Darmsdadt, es- caping the perils of war and the clutches of their prince, obtained freedom in the land they were sent to enslave.
Our Hessian citizen established himself in Eichmond, not long after he renounced his foreign allegiance. He was a shrewd man, and as the valley beyond the Blue Eidge was settled by Germans, his knowledge of the lansaiao^e enabled him to attract the custom of the farmers, who drove their wagons to Eichmond, laden with the products of the dairy, the mill, the forest and the chase.
^ THE MAYOR. Ill
The social disposition of Mr. Darmsdadt brought him into society, even the best. His own entertainments were given daily. Al- most all our citizens, in those days, went early to market, to furnish their larders ; and Mr. D. would have a large coffee-pot before his fireplace, of the contents of which, pre- pared by himself, many of his friends, judges, lawyers, doctors and merchants, partook, whenever they were so inclined — particularly on wet or cold mornings ; and here the chit chat of the day was first heard, and much news was circulated from this social coffee- house. Its proprietor retained it and its cus- tomers some thirty or forty years, until his death.
THE HAT-SCALE WAR. 113
CHAPTER IX.
THE HAY-SCALE WAR.
" This bodes some strange eruption in our state."
SCARCELY any country or any commu- nity, however peaceably disposed and however well governed, can be always free from domestic fends and internal commotions.
In the beginning of the present century, a dangerous feud arose in the city of Richmond, which threatened dismemberment or civil commotion. The origin of the controversy was no less important than the locating the first hay -scale erected in the city. As such a machine was considered beyond the skill of any American mechanic to construct, it was ordered from England, and on its arrival, the question arose, what part of the city should be honored by its erection therein ?
Each claimed the preference and three par- ties were formed — the Greeks on the east, the ShocJcoes on the north, and an intermediate one, which I shall call the Carians. The dis- cussions in and out of the Council waxed
10*
114 EICHMOND IN" BY-GONE DAYS.
warmer at eacli renewal, Tintil at last, as a rhymester of tlie day described it,
*' The contest high and higher rose, Until from words they got to blows, As arguments of greatest stress That either party could express."
The newspapers were resorted to, and squibs and even epigrams, or attempts at them, were penned on the occasion. Such was the excite- ment, that one party, fearing a defeat, and preferring, like the Czar, destruction to dis- grace, threatened to throw the scales into the river.
At length the James Eiver Company for- tunately threw a sop to this Cerberus, by offer- ing a piece of ground for the scales to be erected on near the basin, then nearly com- pleted, and to bear perhaps a part of the expense; on condition that the Company might have the use of the scales, when not otherwise employed. Not the first time that the scales of justice were influenced by inte- rested motives.
The Creek nation and the Shockoes had to succumb and the city was saved. The flow of ink ceased and that of blood was averted.
The scales yet retain their position and the only objection to it was discovered too late —
THE HAY-SCALE WAR. 115
to wit., that tlie ascent to tTie platform, and tlie restricted limits of approach to it were sucli, that wagons laden with hay found great diffi- culty in reaching it.
The defeated nations obtained their tri- umphs in turn. Each was honored with ,an independent hay-scale, and the Carians retain the empty honor of an empty platform.
How many wars originate from causes almost as puerile, and terminate in as little benefit to the victor and as little injury to the vanquished !
TWO PARSONS AND NE'ER A CHURCH. 117
CHAPTER X.
TWO PARSONS AND NE'ER A CHURCH.
*' Behold, how good and how pleasant it is for hrethren to dwell together
in unity I"
IT is a remarkable fact that Riclimond was witliout a diurcb. of any denomination in tlie early part of the present century, and pre- viously, except the venerable oldparish church of St. John'Sj on Church Hill, where religious service was performed before the Revolution, and where the first burst of political regene- ration was uttered by Patrick Henry, in the emphatic words, " CiVE me liberty or give ME death !" — and almost at the moment that I write the words (August, 1855), there is being elevated on the Capitol Square the splendid statue of that orator, by Crawford, represented in the very act of uttering them : a work destined, I hope, to contribute to immortalize, not only the orator, but the sculptor.
This use of the old church by the apostles of liberty was not considered a desecration, except by those who advocated a union of
8 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE BAYS.
Churcli and State, and adored monarcliy in the infallible person of George III. The liberty invoked here was besought with the aid and blessing of heaven, and it was granted and has been perpetuated. How different was the spurious imitation in France, where religion was abolished and infidelity proclaimed ; where a sort of heathen worship was adopted, by per- sonifying Liberty as a goddess, who proved her title by permitting to her worshippers all sorts of freedom. A Liberty that did not survive the courtezan who personated her.
The only other building erected for reli- gious worship, at the time first adverted to, was the Quaker Meeting-house, yet standing on Carey and Nineteenth streets, but in rather a dilapidated condition ; the number of mem- bers of that society, once large, being much diminished.* Some thirty years ago there was a great exodus of them from Southamp- ton and other counties, to the "West. They carried to Ohio the art of curing bacon — but I have wandered from my text.
Other religious denominations had occa-
* Such was the spirit of intolerance in Virginia in former days, that, in 1663, a fine of five thousand pounds of tobacco was incurred hy any ship-master who should bring Quakers to reside in the Colony, and the same fine by any person who should entertain a Quaker in or near his house to preach or teach.
TWO PARSONS AND NE'ER A CHURCH. 119
sional places of worsliip only, for occasional preachers — mere barns, where no regular weekly service was performed.
But this lack of churches in Eichmond gave rise to a beautiful illustration of Christian love and union.
The population of Church Hill was then very sparse, consisting of only a few families, and the distance to the church, from that part of the city where it was comparatively dense, was too great for worshippers to attend, especially in the then condition of the un- paved streets. The hall of the House of Delegates was the only apartment in the city sufficiently spacious for a place of worship, and to this purpose it was devoted on the Sabbath.
But there were two ministers of different denominations, with each a congregation, and only one hall for worship. Parson Buchanan was an Episcopalian ; Parson Blair a Presby- terian. Which one should claim the pulpit ? He who had the largest congregation, or he who had most influence with the Executive and Legislature ? The two parsons did not test the question. The fraternal appellation which each gave to the other, was based on real brotherly love.
120 KICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
On each alternate Sunday, tlie one and the other occupied the moveable pulpit, which disappeared on week days, and such was the spirit of tolerance and liberality which the example of the pastors had inspired into their congregrations, that the same individuals formed a large portion of the worshippers on every Sabbath.
These two clergymen were beloved through- out the community for their many virtues. They were not ascetics, but liked to see their flocks gay and happy, and to promote and partake of such feelings within proper bounds. Each possessed a fund of wit and was liberal in expending it. The humorous poetical sal- lies of Mr. Blair caused many a smile to be wreathed. But I have something to record of these clerical brethren which shows their characters in a more beautiful light.
Mr. Buchanan was a bachelor, and by the death of a brother inherited a competency. Mr. Blair was a married man, dependant on his parishioners and on his school for the sup- port of a large family. Probably by some logical process, on a witty basis, Mr. Buchanan proved that Mr. Blair was entitled to all the clerical fees of both. If not logically, he car- ried his point practically, and no Episcopal
TWO PARSONS AND NE'eR A CHURCH. 121
couple were married, nor an Episcopal child christened, that the fee, if any was forthcom- ing, did not help to expand the slim purse of the Presbyterian brother.
On one occasion Mr. Buchanan played a joke on Mr. Blair, in this wise : — A gentleman engaged Mr. Buchanan to perform the mar- riage service in the country, some twenty or thirty miles distant, but omitted to provide a conveyance for him. At the appointed time Mr. Buchanan hired a carriage for two daysj made the outward journey, and made the twain one — partook of the wedding supper, and no doubt enlivened it. On the next day, as he gave the couple his parting benediction, the bridegroom slipped into his hand a rather heavy rouleau.
The kind-hearted parson inwardly chuckled at the handsome fee he had earned for his brother. He was anxious to unroll the paper, expecting to find ten half joes enveloped, but he restrained his impatience until out of sight of the wedding folks ; then, to his surprise and disappointment, he discovered ten half dollars ! Vexation could not long retain its place with him, and soon gave way to the opposite feeling. He determined, if he could not put a fee into Mr. Blair's pocket, he would
XI
122 EICH^rOXD IX BY-GOXE DAYS.
get some fun out of him. So, on liis return home, he dre^ out a regular account, thus :
• The Kev. J. D. Bl.us,
To the Rev. J. Bcchaitait.
To hire of a carriage two days, at $5, $10
To horse-feed and other expenses to and fro, ... 3
■SI o
By wedding fee received from Mr. , .... 5
Balance due to J. Buchanan, |8
The memory of these good men is enshrined in the hearts of their survivors.
Since those primitive times I have seen many churches built, and many of them con- verted into tobacco factories, bakeries, concert halls, dwellings, &c., but only to be substituted by larger and better edifices, and Eichmond now contains as many and as handsome places of worship as most cities of its size.
Within the last two or three years, in walk- ing round little more than a square (now sub- divided), one would pass these various places of worship — a Campbellite (Disciples), a Bap- tist, an Episcopalian, an African Baptist, a Unitarian, a Methodist Episcopal, and a Pres- byterian church, and a Synagogue.
CEMETERIES. 123
CHAPTER XL
CEMETERIES. *' There the vricked cease from troubling, and the weary are at rest."
THE old cliurcliyard lias been fully ten- anted for a number of years, and its tombstones are reminiscences of many wor- thies, whose names might else have passed from the present generation. After an ab- sence of some fifteen or twenty years, I revisited it, and obtained the melancholy recognition of the names of more of my old friends and acquaintances, inscribed on the
^ tombstones, than I found on the door-plates and sign-boards of the living generation. It recalled "the memory of past joys, pleasant
' but mournful to the soul."
This sacred spot has not been exempt from the barbarous desecration of the idle and worthless. The perpetration of such mischief is one of the most disgraceful traits of some of the basest of our population. Some of the tombs have been mutilated, if not destroyed, and among them, recently, that of the Rev.
124 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
]\Ir. Eose,* tlie wortlij fatter of tliat model of female excellence, the wife and widow of Governor Pleasants, wlio has recently fol- lowed that father and husband to the tomb.
A second general cemetery, near the Poor- house, has been filled and extended, and a third, "the Hollywood," is now being ten- anted ; and it is, or will be, the most beau- tiful Necropolis to be found anywhere. ISTa- ture has done her part in hills, valleys, rivulets, and woods, and Art has embellished, without rendering formal, the beauties of Na- ture. The landscape embraces every variety, of forest and placid stream, hills crowned with woods, or with steeples, shaded valleys and blazing furnaces, bridges, on which rail- road vehicles are moving sixty feet in the air, and, almost beneath your feet, boats gliding, on the graceful curve of a broad canal. In the distance, vast Hour-mills and factories, and beyond them the vessels to be laden with their products ; the perspective closing with cultivated fields, whose grain serves partly to supply those mills.
May the spirits of those whose bodies re- pose in this earthly resting-place look down on it from a heavenly one !
* This is a mistake. The tomb; if Mr. Rose's, vras destroyed by the f allin'' of an old tree on it.
CITIZENS OF YORE. 125
CHAPTER XII.
CITIZEITS OF TORE.
** Honour and shame from no condition rise; Act well your part, there all the honor lies ;
MR. ROSE, tlie jailor, and otliers whom I will introduce, illustrated tlie truth of these lines. He flourished at the close of the last and early in the present century. In his full suit of black, including shorts and hose, which well suited his tall and dignified figure, one would rather suppose that he had charge of a church than of a jail. He was a worthy and kind-hearted gentleman, whose society and that of his family was as highly prized as if he kept a palace instead of a prison.
His house, which stood on the present open space in front of the County Courthouse, (which occupies the site of the old jail,) was not attractive externally, and the stronghold in the rear of it, called by its occupants Hose's Jug, had still less outward charms, and cer- tainly none within ; but it, like the dwelling, had many visitors, though not voluntary ones. Their condition, however, was ren-
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126 EICHMO^'D I^" BY-GOXE DAYS.
derecl as comfortable as was compatible with tlie duty of their custodian.
I have introduced the worthy Mr, Rose, as the precursor of his son-in-law, under whose rod and ferule I advanced in Dilworth as far as words of two syllables, and I now beg leave to introduce His Honor the Most Worshipful
a very long name for a very short man ; but though short in stature, Mr. *-5«-*-5«-*-»***-55-*-5^* was not a man to be overlooked. He came from some unpronounceable place in Wales, and had served on board a British man-of-war at the siege of Gibraltar by Spain. That was the only datum by which to calculate his age, which he never disclosed, and time did not betray it ; a score of years scarcely made any impression on his appearance, and gray hairs could not betray Mm, for no locks of any colour decorated his expansive bald pate. Tired of naval gunnery in the Old World, he sought " to teach the young idea how to shoot" in the ISTew. What vicissitudes intervened between his avocations as powder-monkey and pedagogue, I cannot say, but in the latter he served many years, acquiring in it both cash and credit. He descended from this magisterial bench, to ascend a more lofty one,
CITIZENS OF YORE. 127
but of this presently. He cliangecl, but did not abandon liis literary occupations. Instead of using school books, he vended them ; nor did he contract his sphere within the bounds of spelling books and arithmetics. Literature in general, music, and bookbinding came within his scope. City honors awaited him ; and, by gradual advances, he attained to the office of Eecorder, which he filled with much dignity. He also became Grand Mas- ter of the Grand Lodge of Yirginia. Mr. 4f^^^-5f***«*«*^ ^^g a patron of the fine
arts, and more especially of music. He was one of the founders of the Musical Society^ that held its regular concerts at Tanharh Hall ; and on these occasions,, it may be truly said,
'* With nose and chin he figured in;"
for those features were in him exceedingly prominent ; and as, like most short men, he held his head exceedingly high, he could not be otherwise than conspicuous among the harmonious band, as was his bass-viol, even taller than himself. This society contained several other members in strong contrast to each other, whose faces and figures, and ecstatic gestures, would have furnished a gromp worthy of the pencil of Hogarth. ^Ij.^ -5^ * -:^ ^ -:^ ^^ -^ ^ it -x- ^:- -:t ->^ ^^^g c^ good and chari-
128 EICHMOXD IN BY-GONE DAYS.
table, tliougli not a pious man. Of his defi- ciency in tlie latter respect I would hesitate to speak, had he not given the cue, by telling a story on himself. Horsemanship was not his forte, nor could he be expected to excel in that amongst his other excellencies. Yery short legs, a seafaring life, and that of a do- minie, were not favorable to equestrian skill. On one occasion, when in the saddle, his steed got the whip hand of him; and, fearing a fatal result, he attempted to offer up a prayer, but the only one he could recollect was the first he had learned ; and he poured forth —
*' Now I lay me down to sleep."
■^j. 4t%*^^^**^"jf^^^ (I lii^e to write the
swelling name,) retained on the bench of jus- tice the magisterial air he had acquired at the desk, and in every situation preserved his dignity, whether at the festive board, the whist table, or the music stand. He literally shone in every station that he occupied ; his capacious bald head reflecting the light in all directions, like a halo. He died, full of years and full of honors, in the year 1837.
Mr. ****^^***^**^'s book store was in the only wooden building now remaining of the olden time, already described, on the south side of West Main street ; it stands at the
CITIZENS OF YORE. 129
corner of FourteentTi, or Pearl street. {Mock Pearl. I dislike tliese borrowed names, that impress one with, the insignificance of the ob- ject, compared with its patronyme. Astor House, for instance — dimensions, 20 by 36 — and Wall street. Bah!) In connection with
minded of an humbler, but, in one sense of the word, a much greater personage, whose station was under Ilis Honor, the Eecorder, though not an official one.
Fat Nancy, the enp^ple-woman, filled the cellar door under his Worship's shop window. There she displayed all fruits in their season. The black Pomona of the street, of which she had the monopoly, except so far as her claim was disputed (I should say, infringed upon) by a peripatetic vender. Bob Hummins by name ; but as Bob had only one arm, he did not ven- ture to dispute Nancy's supremacy, and kept out of the reach of her tongue. If scolding could have tried doivn Nancy's fat, the school- boys would have reduced her to a shadow ; for, as some three hundred or more pounds of flesh obstructed her locomotion, the boys stole her apples without fear of arrest (unless by the Eecorder, and it was beneath his dignity,)
130 RICH]\I02TD m BY-GONE DAYS.
and tlius they kept Nancy's scolding faculties in constant exercise.
Another resident of the same square passes before my mind's eye. Previous to the Cor- sican invasion of confectioners, the dispensers of sugar plums had appeared but singly, and at the time I write of, the incumbent was a Frenchman, who bore the euphonious and sylvan name of Aubin de la Foret. Instead of the brilliant shops and saloons which now tempt not only the children, but their parents, with ices, jellies, fruits, and all sorts of bon- bons and cordials, Laforet exhibited, among various less refined comestibles, (not meaning that his candies were highly refined,) a dozen or two jars of confectionary, and these did not require very frequent replenishing. Tem|)tation has, of late years, caused many a sweet tooth to be cut, and perhaps to be ex- tracted. Few could compete with the Fores- ter for the palm of ugliness. To look at him and at his sign, you would be apt to think it a misnomer — so little were the man and the name adapted to each other. His nose would have been very prominent, but that it was turned hard-a-starboard, which probably saved it from running afoul of other objects. His legs were mismatched, one being exceedingly
CITIZENS OF YOKE. 131
bowed, wMcli gave him a lee lurcli in walking. His eyes stood so prominently out of his head that one might suppose he could see in all directions at once, and his complexion vied in hue and wrinkles with his own dried figs. But, with all this lack of " personal pulchri- tude," as Mr. Eootes termed beauty, Mr. La- forest, as he was usually called, was a worthy, honest, and industrious man, and his children inherited, with his good name, something bet- ter than his figure and his features.
I ought, perhaps, to apologize to survivors, if not to readers, for the contents of this cha^Dter ; but I can assure the former that it is dictated by no feeling of disrespect, and the latter, that if it possesses no interest, it dcioicts what has passed away.
Among the singular characters of bygone days, the tall, stiff, and formal figure of Mons. Joseph Bonnardel rises before my mind's eye. This old gentleman, (I cannot say citizen,) was of the " ancien regime" of France, and when that was upset he could no longer re- main. The court costume which he wore, and probably the only kind he possessed, in- dicated that he had known better days.
His ante-revolutionary suits were of costly materials, and of the fashion of the times of
132 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
Louis XYI. His dress was a stiff stock of silk or cambric, fastened behind witli a large buckle, set in paste, or other brilliant imita- tion of precious stones; this shone conspicu- ously above the vest and coat, the collars of which were extremely low, and this stock was on extra occasions ornamented in front with lace falls. His vest, of figured brocade, was extremely ample, with flaps to the pockets, and extended below his hips, garnished with many buttons, in the centre of each of which glistened a brilliant of properly adapted hue. His coat, on some occasions of purple, or of snuff- colored silk velvet, and on others of a lighter silken material, was of grand propor- tions ; the large buttons decorated like those of the vest, and with pockets of huge dimen- sions. His small clothes were of black satin, with elaborate knee buckles, his hose of silk, and his shoes stout, with high quarters and large buckles. He always wore his hair, which was black silvered with gray, combed back from his forehead and temples, (like the ladies of to-day,) and gathered behind in a clubbed queue. His highly decorated gold snuff-box and cane were passports of gen- tility, as well as certificates of date.
Mr. Bonnarders appearance (Frenchman
CITIZENS OF YOEE. 133
tliougli he was) was tliat of an animated au- tomaton; every movement was as stiff and angular as if operated by machinery, and his manner of speaking was as slow and formal as his motions and figure — for the gearing that worked all this machine was of tardy movement. Misfortune had probably injured its springs. The old gentleman, for gentle- man he was, was very poor, and sujoported himself by giving private lessons in French, at a time when scholars were few. He lived in a small wooden house, of one story and an attic, with a peculiar looking porch in front, yet standing, on Grace street, west of Fourth, with tall stumps of mulberry trees in front. In this house he lived, " solitary and alone," for many years, without any domestic help, and but few domestic comforts — but his apart- ment was neat and clean, though little en- cumbered with furniture. Mr. B." preserved every article of his wardrobe, however much worn, which he had brought from la belle France. Paper boxes contained stockings in- numerable, much dilapidated, which perhaps he intended to re-establish on a new footing. The poor old man felt sometimes the crav- ings of hunger, which he had not means to
appease, for he was too proud to ask assist-
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134 EICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
ance, even if lie required it, and liis natural appetite was of tlie insatiable kind. When by chance, dinner was announced at the house where he was giving a lesson, and he was in- vited to a seat at the table, the stowage he made would indicate that he was laying in provisions for an East India voyage.
Mr. Bonnardel was afilicted — I ought to say blessed — with an idiosyncracy which age did not abate. He was not only very susceptible of the tender passion himself, but he imagined and was rendered happy with the idea, that every handsome pupil, who was old enough to discern his merits, was in love with him ; and his greatest concern was, lest his devo- tion to any one of his admirers, should break the hearts of the others. The old man rather lived to love, than loved to live.
Some of my grandma readers, nay, even some of the most youthful great-grandmas, may have been pupils of Mr. Bonnardel, and may remember his gallantry, though they have outlived the tender passion he inspired.
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 135
CHAPTER XIII.
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT.
IT would redound to tlie credit of Ricli- mond to say tliat her Academic Groves preceded theatrical scenic ones, but, unfortu- nately, the former did not attain to maturity before the latter supplanted them.
The extensive square (in Turpin's addition to the city) on which now stand the Monu- mental Church, the Medical College, and a number of private mansions, was first known as " Academy Square." Thereon, and near its centre, a gentleman named Quesnay (vulg. die, Kenny) erected a large wooden edifice, for an academy, and he laid out the grounds in ornamental style.
I am indebted to a gentleman of historical research for the following information, derived from a tract printed in Paris. "Chevalier Quesnay (there printed Fresnay) intended to establish an Academy of the Fine Arts in Richmond, and had the patronage of the most eminent names in Baltimore, Philadel- phia and New York. He went over to Paris
136 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
to carry out liis plans, taking witli liim a letter to Franklin from Mrs. Baclie, and tlie Cheva- lier actually presented liis sclieme to the French Academy, which grave body gave it its approbation." " This singular tract," says my informant, "the only one in existence, I saw in the library of a friend in Philadel- phia."
But the worthy Chevalier must have been far ahead of the times — more than eighty years, as the absence of such an establishment at this day proves. His meritorious enter- prize failed, but how, or under what circum- stances, is not now to be discovered, unless among court records. The extensive square, with the Academy-bu.ilding on it, became the property of West and Bignal, or some other Eno^lish actors, who manao^ed the theatres in all the Southern States. They converted the Academy into one, and here the tragic and the comic muses first bestowed their tears and smiles — in an edifice devoted to them — on a Eichmond audience.
But greater actors performed, and a more glorious work was rehearsed and brought out, in that theatre, than in any other, either in this country or in Europe.
There assembled, in 1788, the Convention of
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 137
sages, patriots, and statesmen, wlio ratified the Constitution of the United States^ as framed in Philadelpliia.
Conld such a constellation of talent, of wis- dom, of pure patriotism, be formed in our political firmament at the present day, under similar circumstances ? From the two subse- quent efforts, I fear the reply must be in the negative.
To prove that this is not mere hyperbole, I will introduce the testimony of Mr. Wirt, who, in his Life of Patrick Henry, thus elo- quently describes this assemblage :
" The Convention had been attended, from its commencement, by a vast concourse of citi- zens of all ages and conditions. The interest so universally felt in the question itself, and not less the transcendent talents which were engaged in its discussion, presented such attractions as could not be resisted. Industry deserted its pursuits, and even dissipation gave up its objects, for the superior enjoy- ments which were presented by the hall of the Convention. Not only the people of the to^vn and neighborhood, but gentlemen from every quarter of the State, were seen thronging to the metropolis, and speeding their eager way
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133 EICHMOXD IS BT-GOXE DAYS.
to the building in wliich tlie Convention lielcl its meetings.
' ' Day after day, from morning till night, the galleries were filled with an anxions crowd, who forgot the inconvenience of their situation in the excess of their enjoyment; and far from giving any interruption to the course of the debate, increased its interest and solemnity by their silence and attention. ISTo bustle, no motion, no sound, was heard among them, save only a slight movement when some new sjoeaker arose, whom they were all eager to see as well as to hear, or when some mas- ter-stroke of eloquence shot thrilling along their nerves, and extorted an involuntary and inarticulate murmur. Day after day was this banquet of the mind and of the heart spread before them, with a delicacy and variety which could never cloy. There every taste might find its peculiar gratifications : the man of wit, the man of feeling, the critic, the philoso- pher, the historian, the metaphysician, the lover of logic, the admirer of rhetoric, — every man who had an eye for the beauty of action, or an ear for the harmony of sound, or a soul for the charms of poetic fancy — in short, every one who could see, or hear, or feel, or understand, might find, in the wanton
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 139
profusion and prodignlitj of that Attic feast, some delicacy adapted to his peculiar taste. Every mode of attack and of defence, of which the human mind is capable, in decorous de- bate— every species of weapon and armor, offensive and defensive, that could be used with advantage, from the Koman javelin to the Parthian arrow, from the cloud of ^neas to the shield of Achilles — all that could be accomplished by human strength, and almost more than human activity, was seen exhibited on that floor."
The dramatis personas of this grand per- formance embraced, among many others, James Madison, John Marshall, James Monroe, Ed- mund Pendleton, George Wythe, George Nich- olas, Edmund Eandolph, George Mason, Gray- son, Innis, Lee, and last, not least, Patrick Henry. It were useless to name more in such a brilliant constellation.
What a perilous descent have I now to make, from this theatre of glorious scenes and splendid actors to the common-place subjects of my narrative !
I will here close the chapter, to break ^he fall and lessen the contrast.
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 141
'CHAPTEE Xiy.
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. (Continued.)
AT tlie corner of the Academic Square wliere now stands the handsome mansion of Mr. Allen, was erected a Market House — the then New Market — but it did not thrive. It was occupied by live cattle and goats instead of beef and mutton. Hens, chickens and ducks volunteered their presence, without the fear of spit or frying-pan, and even laid their eggs in remote and dark corners, not likely to be visited by any other customers than prying school-boys or vagrant children. A few vegetables also volunteered their ver- dure ; such as dandelions — an excellent salad — butter-cups, with roots more pungent than red pepper, chick-weed, for bird fanciers, and thistles — but not a good substitute for arti- chokes.
I don't assert that the fox made his hole and the wren built its nest in the market- house, but it is true that Fox & Wren occu- pied it and built coaches there. The Wrens
142 EICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
now nestle elsewhere, cherislied and clierisli- ing — of the Foxes only one remains in quiet retirement.
The Academic, Forensic, Dramatic Theatre maintained its latter character and was thought to maintain it well for several years, but it met the fate of almost all similar edifices. Conflagration, but without other disaster. The Market-house, guiltless of blood and slaughter, was demolished many years later.
Theatrical performances were afterwards held in the upper part of the old Market- house, on Main and Seventeenth streets, re- cently demolished and rebuilt ; and after that in Quarrier^s Coach-shop on Cary and Seventh streets, where Thomas' large Tobacco-factory stood and was burned in 1851.
Temporary Theatres now again gave place to a regular one. A large brick edifice was erected in the rear of the Old Academy or Theatre Square. That, alas ! was the scene of the most horrid disaster that ever over- whelmed our city, where seventy-two per- sons perished in the flames on the fatal 26th December, 1811, where the Monumental Church now stands, and its portico covers the tomb and the ashes of most of the victims.
The writer, with some friends, reached
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 143
Eiclimond tliat evening from a Christmas jaunt in the country, and went with them to the Theatre — but it was so crowded that we could not obtain admission. A very few hours after, he was aroused by the cry of fire, and hastening to the spot, the first object he encountered on an open space, was a lady lying on the grass apparently in a swoon. lie attempted to raise her, but she was dead. He afterwards learned that she had leaped from a window, but before she could be re- moved from beneath it, was crushed by those who sought for safety by following her. The next object that thrilled him was a gentleman so dreadfully excoriated that death mercifully put an end to his tortures in a few hours — but it were cruel to rehearse the many indi- vidual instances of intense suffering by the victims, and of the scarcely less intense agony of their relatives and friends.
On the ensuing morning, the mangled, burnt and undistinguishable remains of many of the victims were taken from the ruins and interred on the spot, where their names are recorded on the monument already mentioned and the ground was consecrated to the erec- tion of a church.
It is due to an humble but worthy man, to
lii EICHMOXD IX BY-GONE DAYS.
record tlie services rendered by Mm during tlie progress of this dreadful calamity. Gil- bert Hunt, a negro blacksmith, possessed naturally a powerful frame, and by wielding the sledge hammer, his muscles had become almost as strong and as tough as the iron he worked. Gilbert was aroused and besought by Mrs. George Mayo to go to the rescue of her daughter. He was soon at the theatre. "Within its walls, then filled with smoke and flame, was Dr. James D. McCaw, a man who might have been chosen by a sculptor for a model of Hercules. The Doctor had reached a window and broken out the sash, when he and Gilbert recognized each other. He called to Gilbert to stand below and catch those he dropped out. He then seized on the woman nearest to him, and lowering her from the window as far as he could reach, he let her fall. She was caught in Gilbert's arms and conveyed by others to a place of safety. One after another the brave and indefatigable Doctor passed to his comrade below, and thus ten or twelve ladies were saved. The last one providentially was the Doctor's o^yn sif- ter, whose proportions were a feminine epi- tome of the Doctor himself. Gilbert caught
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 145
her and broke her fall, but he sajs he fell with her, both unhurt.
The Doctor having rescued all within his reach, now sought to save himself. The wall was already tottering. He attempted to leap or drop from the window, but his strong leathern gaiter, an article of sportsman's apparel which he always wore, caught in a hinge or some other iron projection, and he was thus suspended in a most horrid and painful position ; he fell at last, but to be lame for life. The muscles and sinews were stretched and torn and lacerated, and his back was seared by the flames, the marks of which he carried to his grave.
The Doctor directed Gilbert to drag him across the street, and place him with his back against the wall of the Baptist Church ; then to get two palings from a fence opposite. "With these for splints and handkerchiefs for bandages, the limb was bound. Gilbert then went in search of a conveyance to carry the Doctor home. His removal from beneath the wall of the theatre had scarcely been effected, before it fell on the spot where he had fallen !
After a long period of suffering, he was
able to resume practice; and his profession
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146 RICHMOXD 1:7 BT-GOXE DAYS.
has been adopted bj son and grandson, per- petuating the good name of Doctor McCaw, which its founder had worthily established.
Gilbert, then a slave, afterwards obtained his freedom — I wish I could add, at the hands of a grateful community ; but it was by his own industry.
His philanthropy and ef&ciency in rescuing his fellow creatures from the flames, were ex- hibited on another occasion. When the Peni- tentiary was burned, some years later, the only outlet was cut off by the flames, and the only means of rescue for the prisoners was by opening a new one, through one of the grated windows ; no ladder was at hand to reach it. Gilbert placed himself under the '^'indow, and Captain Freeman, an active and efficient fireman, mounted on Gilbert's shoul- ders, and thus elevated and supported, the Captain cut out the brick work in which the grate was inserted, and through the breach thus formed, some of the prisoners were res- cued ; but the same operation had to be re- peated at the second and third stories, and the enterprising pair contrived to reach them by the means now brought for their aid, and suc- ceeded in making other breaches. Just as the
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 147
flames readied them, tlie last of tlie convicts was rescued. •
Gilbert went to Liberia in its early settle- ment, when, like all young colonies, it was subject to many hardships and privations. He preferred ease and comfort, and returned to Kichmond, where he resumed his work at the anvil, which poverty renders it necessary still to prosecute, at the age of seventy -five.
Surely Gilbert deserves a pension for his services !
[The title to this Chapter is very inappiopriato, and should rather be, " Place of Horror."]
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 149
CHAPTEE XY.
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. (Continued.)
AFTER the dreadful catastroplie at tlie theatre, a cessation of theatrical amuse- ments ensued for several years ; but such was the change and the accession of population during the period, that, whilst the church was under construction, another theatre, the pre- sent one, was erected, and occupied almost as soon as the church was consecrated.
A much frequented place of amusement, in old times, was the Haymarlcet Garden^ or better known as Prior's^ on the grounds now occupied by the Richmond and Petersburg Railroad Depot and workshops, a tobacco warehouse, the paper-mills, and some machine shops. It was quite a capacious inclosure, with a graduated lawn in front of the large mansion, which, with its extended wings and pinions, divided the lawn from the garden in the rear. A succession of grassy or flowery slopes and terraces extended down to the
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150 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
river, or ratlier to Eoss's canal, (now Haxall's,) and the upper portion of tlie garden com- manded a fine view of the river, tlie islands, and of the country beyond.
Here fireworks delighted the spectators, and equestrians and rope-dancers astonished them. Here ice-creams and cakes were eaten, but very little liquor drunk — the beverages being chiefly lemonade and porteree. Thus the grounds were generally quiet and orderly.
The then elevated ground between the basin and the garden, was occupied by a few resi- dents, and formed a sort of distinct village, called Haymarket. These existed before the basin was navigated, and in its early days.
A more entire transformation cannot well be imagined, than from the quiet and rural aspect of that day, to the throng of travel, the roaring and whistling of steam, and the rumb- ling of water-wheels and machinery of the present. Trent^s Bridge^ built on the rocks in the falls, only two or three feet above the water, is now supplanted by the railroad bridge, some sixty feet more elevated.
A more ancient and less frequented place of resort for recreation, was the French Gar- den^ of which the name remains, but the site, like that of Troy, has been questionable. A
PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 151
senior cotemporary informs me it was on the hill beyond the city spring, flanked by ra- vines.
Some refugees from the horrors and mas- sacre of St. Domingo, fonnd their way to Eichmond. One of them built a tall thin house, like himself, and, with his co-exiles, laid out a garden in this then remote suburb. Here lemonade, fruits, &c., were served to visitors, and here the worthy man, who had been reduced from wealth and comfort to comparative poverty and to exile, spent his remaining days. On the spot where his house stood, may be traced a portion of the foundation. Some of his surviving partners in misfortune, thinking that he had buried his money, for fear of another disaster, dug up his flower roots, his strawberries, and other fruits, in their fruitless search for the hidden treasure.
MitchelVs Spring^ to the east of Academy Hill, and north-east of the Poorhouse, was another place of resort for recreation, but many years the junior of Haymarket. It was " a spot of great capabilities," but not very much improved, and, like its founder, soon fell into the sere and yellow leaf, though its spring continued to send forth a copious
152 RICHMOND IN BY- GONE DAYS.
supply of excellent water. This beverage, however, was not a sufficient temptation to attract visitors, when furnished only in its elementary state.
I have mentioned Academy Hill, but I doubt if many of my readers ever heard of it before. It is north of the valley, in rear of the Poorhouse, and the foundation of the Academy was laid long before that of the Poorhouse ; but it never rose above the base- ment, for which neglect I know not who is to blame. The window frames were stolen out of the brick work, as were the coins from the corner-stone. Thorns and thistles grow where bays and laurels should have flourished ; sheep and calves graze where youths should have sought the flowers of literature and the fruits of knowledge.
PHYSICIANS. 153
CHAPTER XYI.
PHYSICIANS
IN tlie year 1800 tlie population of Eicli- mond was 5,300, embracing almost an equal number of white and black, and tbere were some ten or twelve physicians. The number now may be not far below a hundred, to minister to about forty thousand in the city and suburbs.
Of the ancient stock. Dr. Leiper was per- haps, next to Dr. McClurg (already respect- fally noticed), entitled to precedency ; his brother, Thomas Leiper, was the great tobac- conist, once Mayor of Philadelphia. The Doctor's residence was on Franklin street and his office adjoined it at the corner of Eight- eenth. In that office, W. H. Harrison, after- wards President, began the study of medicine. Dr. Leiper's dwelling, a wooden building, is still extant; the basement converted into shops and the upper part into a tavern for market folks.
Dr. Foushee resided on Main above Four- teenth street; his house was afterwards bought
154 EICHMOIs'D IX BY- GONE DAYS.
and occupied by the United States' Bank, and on its demise was bouglit and demolislied by Mr. Hubbard, to make room for bis extensive slioe-store. Dr. Fousbee was a gentleman of fine personal appearance and deportment, and a favorite physician with the ladies, who said bis visits were restoratives without the aid of medicine, so bland and kind were his man- ners and conversation. This calm and sun- shine which distinguished his medical charac- ter, could be changed to storm and thunder in his political one. His house contained some rare attractions, which caused it to be a favor- ite resort of the beaux, who called it the home of the Graces. They were soon dispersed, however, and each embellished a home of her own. Mr. Carter, of Westover, Mr. Eitchie, of the Enquirer, Col. Parker (of the now for- gotten Miranda expedition) and his brother, carried off these prizes.
In the accomplished wife of the son and successor of Mr. Eitchie, we now recognize a lady, who under a former name acquired his- trionic and literary celebrity, and yet con- tinues to add to the latter.
The ^yriter of these pages, inspired by the grace and beauty of the paragon of these sis- ters, perpetrated in his youth the following
pnysiciANS. 155
Hues, of which, if slio saw them, she knew not their source : —
When the Supreme Creative Power Decided on thy natal hour, Prepared to form thy beauteous face, Thy limbs to mould and give them grace, And to complete his work, impart Within that breast a kindred heart, He from the angels round his throne Chose those whose beautios brightest shone, And cuU'd from earh, with skill divine, Some perfect part and made it thine.
* * ^ * -ii
But merciful to man, on thee Bestow'd not immortality !
Dr. Foushee filled many stations. lie was Mayor of the City, President of the James' Eiver Company, and was appointed to the station of Postmaster after the death of Col. Yandewall. I do not use the word office^ as neither of them occupied it in propria personce. During his incumbency the post-of6.ce was burnt and I happened to have the key of an unoccupied store not far from it. "With the aid of other firemen and citizens, the contents of the office were safely removed to the store, and on meeting the Doctor early the next morning I had the satisfaction to assure him that all was safe and to show him where his office was.
When the Doctor was supposed to be on
156 PJCHMOXD IX BY-GONE DAYS.
Ms cleatli-bed, a rumor of his actual death, was circulated, and one of his political friends posted off to Washington in hot haste to seek consolation for his loss in succession to his ofl&ce. The prospect of it served to dry the tears of this disinterested friend, and when he thought, "good, easy man, full surely, his aiipointment was a ripening !" With what varied emotions was he affected on his return to Kichmond to find the Doctor alive and convalescent !
Foushee's garden, at the north-western boundary of the city, was quite an extensive and well cultivated possession. It now forms several squares, and Foushee street passes through it.
At the corner of Broad and Tenth streets opposite the Fii'st Presbyterian Church, re- sided Dr. Currie, a strong contrast to the gentle, kind and graceful physician last men- tioned, but he had an extensive practice and accumulated a large fortune, which the other did not, because like many other physicians, he was more attentive to his practice than to his fees, and earned many which were not worth attention.
Dr. Cringan, who resided in the wooden dwelling in the rear of the United Presbyter-
PHYSICIANS. 157
ian Cliurcli, was much esteemed, and in pro- fessional deportment held a middle station between the two I have mentioned. His student, Dr. Adams, became his partner in medical practice.
I remember no other cotemporaries of the oldest physicians I have introduced. Doctors Lyons, Greenhow, Watson, Nelson, Clarke, and Bohannan, succeeded them, and Doctors Chamberlayne, Cullen, Warner and Wyman, bright names in the faculty, were of still later date, though their cotemporaries for many years. I may have omitted many names of more or less celebrity in years long past, as well as more recent, but if I were to attempt an enumeration of those of later date» I might, if memory served, enlist as many as I allot to the city at the opening of this chap- ter.
I will therefore discharge the physicians and turn to their subalterns, the apothecaries^ — though in old times each doctor was his own pharmaceutist ; keeping medicines in his of&ce, which his students — if he had any — would prepare according to his prescriptions — if they understood them.
There could not be employment for many apothecaries, v/hen physicians made up a large
14
158 EICHMOXD IX BY-GOXE DAYS.
portion of tlieir o-^tl prescriptions ; but they obtained tlieir medicines from these druggists. About the year 1800, there were but three — if I am correct — occupying the two corners and the centre of the square on Main be- tween Thirteenth and Fourteenth streets. The shop of the brothers Ternan (Irishmen) was at the lower corner, and part of the same wooden house already twice mentioned is yet standing there. A visit to their shop might have rendered an emetic superfluous ; so begrimed with dirt was it and its attend- ants— but they made a fortune. Cra^vford's, at the upper corner where the cannon stands, was quite a contrast in point of neatness, but he was less popular, though also from the Emerald Isle, and did not reap so rich a har- vest. Duval, the sire and grandsire of apo- thecaries, occupied the central shop, and was among the first to prepare nostrums in the shape of antibilious pills, in opposition to Church ; he also estabhshed a pottery and a manufactory of tiles for roofing, but with all his enterprise and industry I doubt if his dirty rivals did not make the most money.
The Medical College is of modern date, hav- ing been established in 1837, by the united influences and exertions of Doctors Chamber-
PHYSICIANS. 159
layne, Cullen, Warner, Manpin and Bohan- nan. Tlie Union Hotel was converted into a medical school and hospital. Limbs, instead of cutting capers, were cut in pieces in the ball-room — potions were mixed instead of punch — poultices supplanted puddings, — and Seidlitz water, champaign. Kow, the former order of things is reinstated at the Hotel, and young doctors are diplomatized and patients are physicked in the Egyptian edifice on the old Academy or Theatre Square — so fre- quently mentioned in these pages.
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NEWSPAPERS AND PRIXTERS, 161
CHAPTER XYII.
NEWSPAPERS AND PRINTERS.
THE oldest newspaper in Richmond in my young days was " The Virginia Gazettej^ Federal in politics, published semi- weekly by Augustine Davis, editor and printer. In the former capacity the implement he chiefly used was the scissors, and he resorted to the pen on indispensable occasions only, as in his hands it was a dull one compared with the other. The Gazette was considerably more than half the size of the little " Dispatch," (but did not contain half as much matter) and more than one-fourth of the broad sheet of the '' Richmond Whig."
Mr. Davis was Postmaster in those days when the Northern mail arrived thrice a week, and was five or six days coming from New York, and he performed in person the duties of the of&ce. The news from Europe was seldom less than five or six weeks old, and occasionally ten. Under such circumstances, the accumulation of news when it came had to be compressed in small space. "Corres-
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162 EICHMOXD I^r BY-GO^'E DATS.
pondence," foreign or domestic, was not even imagined, and I suspect that term might justly be applied to much that appears now-a-days and has so imposing an aspect, especially under the foreign head, emanating from the garret of "a penny-a-liner," and hashed up from a mass of European papers, or prompted by some stock jobbers or brokers.
The old saying that " a lie in a newspaper is good for two paragraphs," assertion and contradiction, did not hold good usually in Mr. Davis's time. There could generally be enough of "authentic intelligence" collected in three days to fill his short columns, v/ithout having recourse to any thing but plain mat- ters of fact, as was the case with newspapers generally; rendering manufactured news a dull and unprofitable commodity ; so that there were few workmen in that line, and no re- porters to exercise their wit on drunken va- grants or quarrelsome couples. As to false reports, the long interval between the publi- cation of two papers, like hot weather in a fish market, caused the article to spoil before it could be used. Mr. Davis's ofiice was in the same basement, corner of Main and Elev- enth, whence " The Enquirer" is now issued. In the adjoining tenements, also his property,
NEWSPAPERS AND PRINTERS. 163
was '' the Queen's palace," after the removal from that on Carey street, which the reader will find noted in the history of her reign.
The political or politic toleration declared in Mr. Jefferson's inaugural message, "We are all Eepublicans, we are all Federalists," was not exercised in Mr. Davis's case, and he ceased to be Postmaster. His successor made it a sinecure office, by placing it nnder the charge of Mr. Davis's eldest son. This pro- scription excited the ire of the editor, and he changed the title of his paper to that of " Pa- triot," a title that disappointed politicians are apt to assnme. He employed a pungent and spicy editor named Prentiss, but if I remem- ber rightly, his paragraphs were too highly seasoned for the taste of his readers.
A cotemporary paper, bnt the junior to the Gazette, was " Tlie Virginia Argus,''^ Demo- cratic (then styled Eepublican) in politics, and published by Samuel Pleasants, also semi- weekly. Mr. Pleasants was, like his rival, more expert in wielding the scissors than the pen. The two editors did not cut each other though espousing opposite parties, and seldom came in collision in their editorials, unless represented by champions under their masks, and as the editor of the Argus was a Quaker,
16-i EICHMOXD IX BY-GOXE DAYS.
tliere was no danger of a duel, or of a resort to tlie peace-maker " if to avert one. Tlie eyes of Argus began to wax dim, wlien they were suddenly brightened, and he was ren- dered wide awake by a good genius, who under the mask of " A British /S^y," furnished a series of letters which not only kept open the eyes of Argus, but also those of his read- ers. They furnished much to interest and amuse the public and brought a great increase to the subscription list of the paper ; but with the departure of the Spy, departed many of the subscribers, and after the war excitement was over, the Argus closed its eyes. Its old antagonist under its patriot appellation was extant in 1818 and later.
While these two non-combatants were pur- suing their quiet course, there was a furious Eepublican champion in the field. " The Ex- aminer^"^ edited by Meriwether Jones, who was an editor, not a printer, and in considera- tion of this qualification and disqualification, he was elected printer to the Commonwealth. It might be curious to see some of the typo- graphical work which was executed in his ofS.ce for the public. Much of it, however, was underlet to practical printers.
There was a celebrated and notorious hack-
NEWSPAPERS AND PRINTERS. 165
wTiter in Eiclimond in tliose days. James Thompson Callender, a well educated Scotch- man, an able writer and a great sot. He was employed by the editor of the Examiner in promoting the election of Mr. Jefferson to the presidency, and good service he performed — his potations stimulated his pen, and drunk or sober, his paragraphs were ably written. Democracy was in the ascendant, and Mr. Jefferson was elected. Callender thought his services might claim a reward, as he saw rewards conferred upon less able partizans. His claim, very properly, was not admitted, and like many other unrewarded partizans, he changed his politics. Just about this time, a practical printer named Pace, who could compose types much better than he could a paragraph, attempted to establish a paper called " Tlie Recorder^ It was dying of inani- tion in its cradle, when Callender offered to save its life and make a giant of it. He be- came the anti-administration combatant, and opened his batteries on Mr. Jefferson in a series of the most furious and Billingsgate articles against him and his principles, moral and political. Callender had been imprisoned for libel during Adams's administration, from whence he was released by the clemency of
166 EICHMOXD m BY-GONE DAYS.
Mr. Jefferson. He now got back again into liis " old quarters in the Eiclimonci jail," (whence he dated his writings) for a libel on Mr. Hay, district attorney, aj^pointed by Mr. Jefferson.
Callender's pen was at the service of •, who- ever would pay for it, and he was employed by some of the members of the legislature to write circulars for them to their constituents at the close of the sessions. As the fee for such a composition was equal to several days' pay, two or more members from counties remote from each other, would club together for a circular, chock full of democracy, manu- factured by a Scotchman for the nonce. One of them would obtain it and place it in the printer's hands, with instructions to adapt the captions and signatures to suit the several members, who clubbed their money instead of their wits.
On one occasion the boys in the printing of&ce, who folded and directed the circulars, were so mischievous as to direct them indis- criminately. Thus some of the letters signed by an eastern member would be sent to a western constituent, and vice-versa, tending to show a remarkable coincidence in the sen- timents and language of different individuals.
Poor Callender, a martyr to both democracy
NEWSPAPERS AND PRINTEES. 167
and federalism, and also to liquor, died a whiskey and watery death. He had one day imbibed too much whiskey before taking his daily bath in the river, and was drowned.
A cotemporary and strenuous opponent in politics to "The Examiner," was ^''The Vir- ginia Federalists^'' published by Stewart and Eind, and ably edited. The talent it dis- played induced some party leaders to cause a change in its place of publication to Wash- ington, where it appeared under the title of The Washington Federalist.
On the death of Meriwether Jones, his bro- ther Skelton, of duelling notoriety, edited the Examiner, but the pecuniary affairs of the es- tablishment had always been embarrassed — subscriptions to newspapers are, notoriously, difficult to collect, and the publication ceased. But the Enqidrer^ like a Phoenix, arose from its ashes in 1804, and, under the judicious and energetic management of Thomas Eitchie, aided by many able contributors, " the En- quirer" attained a greater circulation and in- fluence than any of its predecessors. Looking at the signatures of its numerous correspond- ents, one might suppose that all the sages and patriots of Greece and Eome had risen from their tombs to enlighten the existing genera-
163 RICHMOND IN BY- GONE DAYS.
tion. If spiritual manifestations had favored tliat generation, as it curses this, the commu- nications and revelations might thus have been accounted for ; but, in many instances, they would have proved, that intellect is not progressive in a future state, and that the future state is a democratic one. Such was the success of the Enquirer, that Mr. Eitchie found it expedient to attach to it a sort of tender, as a vehicle for city advertisements, and he purchased "//le Comjnler,''^ which had been commenced by Leroy Anderson and W. C. Shields.
To counteract the influence of the Enqui- rer, there was brought out, in 182-i, a power- ful opponent, in " The Whig^''^ edited by John Hampden Pleasants. These two papers have been political opponents for many years, and would I could add the antagonism had been political only.
It is deeply to be regretted that our news- papers should be so frequently disgraced by personalities, which have no connection with the subject under discussion, and which tend to show a lack of sound argument, and cer- tainly of good maoners. What have become of the rules adopted by a Convention of Edi- tors some years ago ? Like the proceedings
NEWSPAPERS AND PRINTERS.
169
of most conventions, they were forgotten after tlie farewell feast had been eaten, and the fraternal sentiments then expressed, evapo- rated with the fumes of the wine in which they were drunk. We see no personal abuse of each other by European editors.
Many ephemeral papers have appeared, like meteors, and some of them may "have shed a baleful influence." Among the num- ber that sought to enlighten the people, were two " Standards" that struck their colors ; a " Shield" that ceased to protect ; a " Star" that was extinguished ; a " Phoenix" from whose ashes no other was hatched ; a " Spirit of '76" that vanished ; a " Jeffersonian" that was probably a misnomer, and sundry " Times ;" whether dull, or brisk, or hard, they did not become old.
The oldest printer whose name I can recall was Dixon ; after him, T. Nicolson, the very bean ideal of an old bachelor, if heau and ideal can be thus applied. The work of printing the first volume of Call's Eeports occupied his energies for about twelve months. He was Librarian to the Society formed some sixty years ago, and woe to the member who retained a book beyond the limited time! Under his care, the library
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170 EICHMOND liN" BY-GONE DAYS.
was well sustained. The site of liis Printing OfS.ce and of tlie Library, is now occupied by Goddin's Hall.
One of his apprentices, or jonrneymen, is now the oldest of tlie craft in Eiclimond, and the oldest citizen of Eiclimond birth. The venerable Mr. Warrock, at the age of eighty- three, still handles the composing-stick, and continnes to publish his Almanac, which has recorded half as many years as himself
Though somewhat damaged by time, his case has no bad type, and, after the impres- sions of so many years, his form is still ca- pable of work.
Whilst speaking of almanacs, it is a curious fact, that, in the commencement of this cen- tury, " Bannaker's Almanac" was annually issued, and it was calculated by Benjamin Bannaker, a black man, who resided near the Maryland line.
PUBLICANS AND PATEIOTS. 171
CHAPTEE XYIII.
PUBLICANS AND PATEIOTS.
DR. JOHNSO]^ says, " wTio drives fat oxen should himself be fat." In Rich- mond it was proved that he who served the beef should acquire the obesity.
The hosts of our taverns, in old times, were a jolly looking set. The oldest in my day were old Burgess and his wife, round and rosy, of that ancientest of inns, " The Bird in Hand^^'^ at the foot of Church Hill. Then came in ro- tation (by locality), Raphel, of the City Tavern^ fat and lazy. These hosts were not distin- guished by military titles, as most of their superiors in locality were. Major Bowler has already been described. Caspar Fleisher and his wife were host and hostess of the Rising Sun — as round and as red as he, when seen through a fog — against the effect of which Caspar furnished an antidote. His sun rose and shone for many years near the old Capi- tol, and on the spot now occupied by the Peni- tentiary store on Fourteenth street.
The rotundity of Caspar and his wife gave
172 EICHMOXD IX BY-GOXE DAYS.
warranty tliat tlieir table was well served and tlieir beer not small, for beer was a general and genteel beverage in those days, although lager had not raised its head, if it has any. At that time very good beer was made by Hay k Forrester, at their brewery on Canal street. We were independent of the ISTorth for all our bevera^^es. Our French brandv and Jamaica rum were not distilled in New York, nor our Champaign (if we had any) bot- tled in New Jersey.
Col. Eadford, of the Eagle^ was of grand dimensions, as was his house in those days, and of great resort. Esme Smock afterwards became andlord of the Eaoie. I mention him
o
because the name is now obsolete here, as applied either to men or things.
Crouch's Virginia Iniij on the ascent of Governor street, had nothing to distinguish it that I remember, except the difficulty of get- ting to it, and the small inducement to do so. "Where now stands the Exchange^ or a very small portion of it, stood Major Davis's tavern^ itself of very small pretensions, but its host of very great — never less than a scarlet vest and other externals to correspond, and a very martial air, even when not on parade. A tough pull was it, in wet weather, to attain to
PUBLICANS AND PATRIOTS. 173
the Major's house, the locality of which was chosen in respect to Byrd's Warehouse^ a tobacco inspection opposite, which may be said to have gone to h — 1, or h — 1 to it — according to a modern application of that word, unfit for ears polite — considering how the site is now occupied. Major Davis's tavern was invaded and demolished by Byrd's AYarehouse, which, from some motive, political or otherwise, changed sides, and took possession of the whole of the present Exchange premises, but in a few years came to a conclusion.
Col. Goodall, of the Washington (not then, nor now, bearing that honored name) was a man of commanding mein, rotund and rosy, as if he enjoyed the good things he dispensed to his guests. Bat the Colonel deserves to be mentioned in a different character than as host of the Indian Queen^ under whose plumes he nestled.
"When Governor Dunmore, like a thief in the night, took a quantity of powder secretly from the magazine at Williamsburg, in 1775, Patrick Henry was elected to the command of the first co7n2Jany of volunteers that took up arms against royal authority, or encroachment, in any State south of Massachusetts, and imme- diately after the affair at Lexington and Con-
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174: RICH:\I0XD IX BY-GO^^E DATS.
cord. The volunteers of Hanover dared to offer resistance to the Elector of Hanover. Of this band of patriots, Henry was Captain, Meredith was Lieutenant, and Parlce Goodall Ensign ; and he was detached, with sixteen men, to demand of Eichard Corbin, the king's Eeceiver-General, the sum of three hundred and thirty pounds, in payment for the stolen powder, or in case of refusal, to make him prisoner. Mr. Corbin was not at home, but Dunmore found it prudent to order him to pay the money. This was the first overt act of rehellioii in Yirginia against royal authority, and Colonel Goodall deserves to be remem- bered for his participation in it.
The Swan Tavern was kept by Major Moss, who probably also served in the Eevolutionary war — this may or may not be. He also ex- hibited good breeding, good feeding, and good fellowship in his full figure and face. His house might have been called the Lincoln's Inn or Doctor's Commons of Eichmond, for there assembled, in term time, the non-resi- dent judges and lawyers, and though of unpre- tending exterior, the Swan was the tavern of highest repute for good fare, good wine, and good company. Here centred "the logic, and the wisdom, and the wit," nor was " the
PUBLICANS AND PATRIOTS. 175
loud laiigli" wanting. It lias lost its name and fame, and few of its professional guests sur- vive.
An occasional appendage to tlie Swan was a house nearly opposite to it, at the corner of Broad and Tenth streets, where a large China store now stands. In that house Aaron Burr was kept prisoner during his trial for treason, the Federal Court having no prison under its control.
RACES AND BALLS. 177
CHAPTER XIX.
RACES AND BALLS.
"Actions of the last age, are like almanacs of the past year."
IN old times in Yirginia, Iwrse-racing was tlie sport of gentlemen. Many wealthy planters had their stud of horses of the best stock, as well as of the most useful, and raised them for the turf, the saddle, the harness, and the plough. There was no West then, as now, to supply them, and mules were scarcely known. One gentleman who had seen their value elsewhere, for the purpose of introduc- ing them, brought two or three jacks to Eich- mond, but in vain. He turned them out on the common, and the school-boys derived great sport from riding them. , Washington Irving has introduced a gentleman in one of his sketches, under the name of Ealph Eing- wood, who I must also introduce here as one of the school-boys. To make sure of a holi- day ride he caught one of the donkeys over night, and stabled him in his father's smoke- house. At an early hour in the morning, the household was alarmed by a most unearthly
178 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
and less heavenly noise. The house-keeper thought her bacon had gone to the devil or the devil had got into it. The yonng scamp had to allay the demon by producing the key and releasing the donkey. Irving gives a richer, and of course, an amusing version of the story, showing that the adventure with the donkey tended to make Mr. Duval, Gover- nor of Florida.
Gentlemen of town and country formed the Jockey Clubs, which held the Spring and Fall races at Eichmond and Petersburg, and per- haps elsewhere. They and their friends came to town in their coaches and four, in their phae- tons, chariots, and gigs, bringing their wives and daughters: a very convenient time for the Spring and Fall fashions. The race-field presented a brilliant display of equipages, fiUed with the reigning belles and their pre- decessors. Many were the pairs of gloves lost and won between them and their beaux. Nothing could appear more animated than such an assemblage of beauty and fashion. The equestrians, on fine blooded horses, riding from coach to coach, or during the heat of the race, going at high speed, to obtain a commanding view of the contest. The race week was a per- fect carnival. The streets were thronged with
« EACES AND BALLS. 179
equipages, and the sliops with customers. ISTot only taverns and boarding-houses were filled, but private families opened their hospitable doors to their country friends. Among the amusements of the week was the Race Ball, which (as well as the regular dancing assem- bhes of the winter) was held in the large ball- room of the Eagle. Boots and pants in those days were proscribed. Etiquette required shorts and silks, and pumps with buckles, and powdered hair. The ball was opened by one of the managers and the lady he thought proper to distinguish, with a minuet de la Cour, putting the grace and elegance of the couple to a severe ordeal.
Such bowing and curtseying, tiptoeing and tipfingering, backing and filling, advancing and retreating, attracting and repelling, all in the figures of Z or X, to a tune which would have served for a dead march I A long silken train following the lady, like a sunset shadow ; and the gentleman holding a cocked hat under his arm, or in his hand, until at last the lady permitted the gentleman, at full arms-length, to hand her, by the very tips of her fingers to a seat, when, with a most profound bow, he retreated backward to seek one for himself.
Then commenced the reel, like a storm after
180 RICHMOND IN BY-GONE DAYS.
a calm — all life and animation. No solemn walking of the figure to a measured step — but pigeon-wings fluttered, and all sorts of capers were cut to tlie music of Si. Gilliat's fiddle, and the flute or clarionet of his blacker com- rade, London Brigs.
Contra dances followed, and sometimes a Congo, or a hornpipe ; and when " the music grew fast and furious," and the most stately of the company had retired, a jig would wind up the evening, which, by-the-by, commenced about eight o'clock.
The waltz and the polka were as great strangers to the ball-room floor, as were Cham- paign and Perigord pies to the supper-table.
No hands were then " promiscuously applied Around the waist or down the glowing side."
The sports of the turf have so degenerated of late years, that few ladies of the present generation ever saw a race. The field is now chiefly in possession of a class, termed in soft- ened phrase, "sporting characters," in the same way that Kegro-traders are called " spe- culators." Exclusive of the racing, the field sometimes presents a scene of the lowest gam- bling and dissipation.
SOCIETIES. 181
CHAPTER XX.
SOCIETIES.
THE wortliies of Riclimond, of tHe last century, formed among themselves tliree associations, for very different purposes — cha- ritable, literary, and social — in which order I shall introduce them.
The Amicable Society was instituted in 1788, with the benevolent object of relieving stran- gers and wayfarers, in distress, for whom the law makes no provision. The first officers elected by the Society were Anthony Single- ton, president ; Alexander Montgomery, vice- president; Alexander Buchanan, treasurer; and Charles Hopkins, secretary. Their suc- cessors were, in the presidency, in 1794, An- drew Ronald, and, in 1800, the Rev. John Buchanan, who retained the office for a great number of years ; in the vice-presidency, in 1791, John Henry, in 1792, John Groves, in 1807, John Richards ; and, as treasurer, Wil- , liam Berkeley in 1801, John Foster in 1807, and, subsequently, Edmund W. Rootes until
his death.
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182 RICHMOND IN BT-GOXE DAYS.
It may be curious, if not gratifying, to the few survivors and to tlie numerous descend- ants of the early members of the Society, to inscribe their names on these pages. The fol- lowing is an extract from the records of the Amicable Society, kept in clerkly style : —
"A company of gentlemen having met at the Richmond Coffeehouse, on Saturday, 13th December, 1788, viz. : Alex. Montgomery, John Groves, George Wier, Charles Hopkins, John Graham, and Alexander Buchanan, thev resolved to form themselves into a Society, by the name of the Amicable Society of Rich- mond^ on the principles and for the purposes expressed in the Eules, which were then con- sidered and adopted ; at the same time, the following gentlemen were considered as mem- bers : —
"James Montgomery, Anthony Singleton, George Pickett, Andrew Eonald, Philip South- all, John Cunliffe, and Joseph Higbee.
" The same evening officers were appointed, to remain in office till the next annual meet- ing:
"Anthony Singleton, president ; Alexander Montgomery, vice-president; Charles Hop- kins, secretary : Alexander Buchanan, trea- surer.
SOCIETIES. 183
" On tlie 20tli December, 1788, the follow- ing new members were admitted :
" Arthur Stewart, Thomas Keene, Eichard Hartshorne, John Marshall, William Wise- ham, William Shermer, Joseph Lakel, and William Fenwick."
On the 7th February, 1789, the accession of new members was, William Mitchell, Jos. Dalzel, John Cringan, John Buchanan, John Harvey, James Kemp, and Joseph Darmstadt.
At a meeting on the 2d May, 1789, the fol- lowing entry is made on the record of the Society: "It having appeared, by advertise- ment, that a surplus of a fund arising from a ball on General Washington's birthnight, was to be given to this Society, Mr. Alexander Montgomery, as a manager of that ball, paid this evening to the treasurer, the said surplus, amounting to twenty pounds, sixteen shillings and sixpence."
At this meeting, the following new mem- bers were admitted : Thomas Mann Eandolph, George Nicolson, and James Brown ; and on the 7th November, 1789, James Strange, of Manchester, and Alexander Youille — at which time a vote of thanks was given to Alexander Donald for a donation of five pounds.
The new members in 1790 were Eobert
184 EICHMOXD IN" BY-GOXE DAYS.
Gamble and John Ker. Tlie Legislature of 1790-91 autliorized a lottery, to raise one thonsand pounds for tlie benefit of tbe So- ciety. In 1791, Andrew Leiper, George Gray, James Knox, and Charles Hay, were added to the members, and also Abraham Lott, Hngh J. Crawford, John Henry, Thomas Eutherford, William Hay, William Fonshee, William Mewburn, William Heth, James Innis, Patrick Hart, John H. Briggs, and John Satchell ; subsequently, John Hopkins, John Banks, Alex. Quarrier, and Thomas Gilliatt were admitted, and a Eule adopted that the Society should be limited to sixty resident members. The admission of mem- bers, subsequently, were, in 1793, John Eichard; in 1797, Charles Copland and Jos. Anthony ; in 1798, William Berkeley and John Foster; in 1804, Wilson Allen; in 1809, John G. Smith and M. W. Hancock. In 1811, a revival • occurred, and twenty- one members were added, namely: W. H. Fitz- whyllsonn, J. G. Gamble, E. Gamble, John Adams, J. Brockenbrough, A. Pollok, C. J. Macmurdo, Thomas Taylor, Samuel Myers, Jos. Marx, Jas. Gibbon, Wm. Hay, Jr., James McClurg, E. J. Haven, W. IST. Morris, Eobert
SOCIETIES. 185
Johnston, E. "W. Kootes, C. B. Page, J. "Wick- ham, M. B. Poitiaux, and Eobert Gordon.
In 1812, James Brown, Jr., and Dr. J. D. McCaw.
In 1813, Robert Greenhow and S. Pleasants ; 1815, W. Lambert ; 1816, Wm. Finney; 1822, Rev. J. H. Rice and T. li. Bradley. In 1825, a second revival brought a large accession of members, namely: S. Jacobs, B. Brand, A. Otis, C. J. Nicholas, W. Bibber, L. J. Salig- nac, R. G. Scott, G. C. Pickett, G. H. Backus, J. Bronaugh, J. Goddin, J. McKildoe, W. H. Hubbard, J. H. Eustace, T. Brockenbrough, W. Gait, Jr., Jaq. Taylor, Dr. T. Nelson, D. Warnick, J. Rawlings, T. Ritchie, J. Hall, Dr. J. Trent, W. Gillat, R. Gwathmey, T. Gwath- mey, J. Bosher, W. Munford, J. Ambler, J. Parkhill, W. F. Micou, W. "W. Henning, R. Wortham, IST. Sheppard, W. Brockenbrough, D. J. Burr, M. Walthall, and T. Diddep.
Having extended the record through the period of two generations, I will leave the last thirty years untold. Of all those named, I can count up but thirteen survivors.
The funds of the Society accumulated, and the surplus of interest on its investments was regularly reinvested, and during the sixty-
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186 EicHMOND i:t by-G02sE days,
seven years of its existeiice, there lias never been a defaulting officer.
In 1811, wlien the stock held by the So- ciety was about $9000, it made a donation of more than one-half to the Female Humane Association of Eichmond, in fifty shares of Bank stock, in aid of the large bequest made by the benevolent Edmund Walls, a native of Ireland, and for many years Inspector of Flour in Eichmond, who left the great bulk of his fortune to the founding of that charity, which has been faithfully applied.
On the formation of the Male Orjphan Asylum^ the Amicable Society made a donation to it of SIOOO— in 1851.
The society still exists in a small number of members, and it is to be hoped that it will acquire additional and active ones, whose exertions may invigorate and perpetuate it.
As an institution of our forefathers, it should be honored and cherished for their sakes ; and as a charitable one, for our own and our suc-
NOTE. — It is gratifying to state that since the preceding was ■written, thi; research has recalled the attention of a public spirited gentleman to the long dormant Amicable Society. At his instance, a new acces- sion of members is obtained. Some funds have been invested and some have been applied to the relief of the distressed during this, the severest •winter (1855-6) known for many years. Snow has mantled the earth for six weeks, and the rivers in Virginia closed to navigation during the months of January and February, with ice more than a foot in thickness.
SOCIETIES. 187
cessors. It should, be deemed a perpetual legacy, from generation to generation.
The Library Society under the management of its founders, who embraced most of the persons constituting the Amicable Society and in general the principal citizens, was as well conducted as such establishments usually are ; and under the custody of Thomas Nicholson, Librarian, the books were well taken care of, and the circulation of them was extensive. To what its failure is to be ascribed, I know not ; unless it was an undue influence obtained by some lady novel readers, who induced their friends of the directory to fill the shelves with " Minerva Library" novels, a notorious London mint for the issue of trash, such as is now hawked about our streets at twenty-five cents, for as much worthless matter as then cost two or three dollars.
After an existence of twenty years or more, the early teens of which were vigorous and useful, the library gradually declined; the books were distributed among the members, and the society ceased to exist.
An interval of seven years now ensued, of literary darkness, so far as a public Library was necessary to diffuse light, and then a suc- cessor to the old institution was created, and
188 EICHMOXD IN BY-GOXE DAYS.
would I could add, a thriving one, and that its readers were as numerous as the num- ber and character of its volumes should in- vite. It requires a considerable accession of members to keep its shelves furnished with the valuable and the good current Literature of the day. For the credit of the city, it is to be desired that all who can enjoy such literature, should make the small contribu- tion required to entitle them to membership, and to sustain so "useful an establishment. It would be a reflection on the intellectual char- acter of the city to say, that it cannot support a Library, nor even a Eeading Eoom. The city appropriates an apartment in the Athse- neum, with light and one hundred and fifty dollars annually, to the use of the Library, on condition that every visitor may there have gratuitous access to the books.
I will now introduce the Quoit Club, or as it is called. The Barbacue Club,
" "Who mixed reason -witli pleasure, and Wisdom with mirth."
This club was formed some sixty years ago and met on Saturdays during the genial sea- son, at Buchanan s Spring^ under the oaks of original growth, with no other shelter than
SOCIETIES. 189
the sliade they afforded, and an open shed, to protect the dinner table. Quoits was the game, and toddy, punch and mint julip, the bever- ages, to wash down a plain substantial dinner, without wines or dessert.
Among the most skilful in throwing the Discus as he was in discussion, was Judge Marshall, even in advanced years, and it de- lighted his competitors as much as himself, to see him " ring the meg." The brother Par- sons, Buchanan and Blair, were honorary members of the club, and the latter, though apparently of fragile form, was a practica member with the quoits, and both of them with the jests and good humor that prevaded
A list of the members of this club, would comprise many of the most worthy citizens of their day — but are not their names written in the book of the Amicable society ? I will record here, only Jasper Crouch, their mu- latto cook, and who ofhciated at all public dinners ; he acquired the gout in this conge- nial occupation, and also the rotundity of an alderman, and fell a victim to the good things of this life. A similar club was formed many years after, and met at Clarice's Spring — now the Hollywood